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Herbs are easy to grow

Last updated 2026-07-29 by Dr John Elfick

5.0.0 What is a herb?

herb n.1 any non-woody seed-bearing plant which dies down to the ground after flowering.2.any plant with leaves seeds or flowers used for flavouring food, medicine, scent etc,

Latin herba 'grass', herbaceous adj.'like herbs' (The Concise Oxford Dictionary)

In botany, the noun "herb" refers to a "plant that does not produce a woody stem", but the list below includes some herbal tree and shrubs, e.g.Witch Hazel and Chaste tree, but not the poisonous Yew,

In herbalism, a herb is any plant used medically, woody or herbaceous, now or previously,

A person can live a healthy life without ever consuming or using any herb or spices, provided their diet supplies all the essential nutrients,

Herbs and spices are not considered essential food groups,

There are no nutrients that can only be obtained from common herbs, e.g.basil, parsley, cinnamon,

So why do people bother about herbs? We like herbs, because they make us happy! Culinary herbs improve the taste and colour of our food,

herbs give us pleasant smells,

Medical herbs make us feel better,

Spiritual herbs give us religious experience, e.g.the burning of tree resins during the Holy Communion or Mass,

Herbs, excludes vegetables, refers to the leafy green or flowering parts of a plant, while spices are usually dried and produced from seeds, bark, roots and fruits,

Herbs have a variety of uses including culinary, medicinal, aromatic and in some cases, spiritual,

The chemicals in herbs responsible for their uses are called their active constituents,

Each herb contains one or more of the following:

| Alkaloids as in coffee | Flavonoids as in Chamomile | Terpenoids as in Peppermint | Phenolic compounds as in Turmeric | Glycosides as in Foxglove | Saponins as in Soapwort | Polyphenols as in Green Tea | Mucilages as in Marshmallow | and many more chemicals,

A plant can live a healthy life without ever producing any active constituents, provided they have sunlight and live in soil containing the needed soil nutrients,

So why do plants bother to produce active constituents? Plants need to defend themselves against herbivores to discourage them from eating the plant and against pathogens, to stop them infecting the plant,

Plants need to attract pollinators with scents,

Plants need to attract animals to disperse seeds,

Plants need to interfere with the growth of nearby plants,

Plants need protection against drought or extreme temperature,

Plants need to communicate stress to attract predators of herbivores,

Herbs like the active constituents, because they make feel happy!

5.1.0 Herb list

List of herbs commonly sold commercially

Achiote (Bixa orellana), Bixaceae

Achira (Canna edulis), Cannanaceae

African nutmeg (Monodora myristica), Annonaceae

Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria), Rosaceae

Aibika (Abelmoschus manihot), Malvaceae

Ajwain (Trachyspermum ammi), Apiaceae

Alexanders (Smyrnium olusatrum), Apiaceae

Alkanet (Alkanna tinctoria), Boraginaceae

Allspice (Pimenta dioica), Myrtaceae

Aloe (Aloe vera), Asphodelaceae

Amboyna wood (Pterocarpus indicus), Fabaceae

Angelica (Angelica archangelica), Apiaceae

Anise (Pimpinella anisum), Apiaceae

Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), Lamiaceae

Aniseed myrtle (Syzygium anisatum).Myrtaceae

Arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea), Marantaceae

Artichoke (Cynara cardunculus var.scolymus), Asteraceae

Asafoetida (Asafetida), (Ferula assafoetida), Apiaceae

Ashitaba (Angelica keiskel koldzumi), Apiaceae

Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera), Solanaceae

Asian greens (Brassica juncia), Brassicaceae

Asian mint (Mentha asiatica), Lamiaceae

Asthma plant (Euphorbis hirta). Euphorbiaceae

Atherton raspberry (Rubus probus), Rosaceae

Australian nutmeg (Myristica insipida), Myristacaceae

Australian raspberry (Rubus parvifolius), Rosaceae

Balm-of-Gilead (Cedronella canariensis), Lamiaceae

Barberry (Berberis vulgaris), Berberidaceae

Basil (Ocimum basilicum), Lamiaceae

Basil thyme (Acinos arvensis), Lamiaceae

Bay tree (Laurus nobilis), Lauraceae

Beach naupaka (Scaevola sericea), Goodeniaceae

Bergamot (Monarda didyma), Lamiaceae

Betel pepper (Piper betel), Piperaceae

Betony (Betonica officinalis), Lamiaceae

Bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus), Ericaceae

Bistort (Bistorta officinalis), Polygonaceae

Bitter apple, (Citrullus colocynthis), Cucurbitaceae

Boldo (Peumus boldus), Monimiaceae

Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum), Asteraceae

Borage (Borago officinalis), Boraginaceae

Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri), Plantaginaceae

Brazilian spinach (Alternanthera sessilis), Amaranthaceae

Bugle (Ajuga reptans), Lamiaceae

Bunching onion (Allium fistulosum), Amaryllidaceae

Butterfly pea (Clitoria ternatea), Fabaceae

Calamint (Calamintha sylvatica), Lamiaceae

California bay laurel (Umbellularia californica), Lauraceae

California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Papaveraceae

Camphor (Chrysanthemum balsamita), Asteraceae

Camphor basil (Chrysanthemum balsamita), Asteraceae

Candelabra aloe (Aloe candelabra), Asphodelaceae

Cape York turmeric (Curcuma australasica), Zingiberaceae

Capers (Capparis spinosa), Capparaceae

Caraway (Carum carvi), Apiaceae

Cardamom, True (Elattaria cardamomum), Zingiberaceae

Cardamom, Black (Amomum subulatum), Zingiberaceae,

Carnation (Dianthus caryophyllus), Caryophyllaceae

Cat grass (Dactylis glomerata), Poaceae

Catnip (Nepeta cataria), Lamiaceae

Celery (Apium graveolens), Apiaceae

Centranthus (Valeriana rubra), Apiaceae

Ceylon spinach (Basella alba), Basellaceae

Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), Asteraceae

Chard (Beta vulgaris subsp vulgaris), Amanthaceae

Charoli (Buchanania lanzan), Anarcardiaceae

Chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus), Verbenaceae

Chaya (Cnidoscolus aconitifolius), Euphorbiaceae

Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium), Apiaceae

Chickweed (Stellaria media), Carophyllaceae

Chicory (Cichorium intybus), Asteraceae

Chilli (Capsicum annuum), Solanaceae

Chinese cinnamon (Cinnamomum cassia), Lauraceae

Chinese keys (Boesenbergia rotunda), Zingiberaceae

Chinese mugwort (Artemisia verlotiorum), Asteraceae

Chinese scallions (Allium chinense), Amaryllidaceae

Chives (Allium schoenoprasum), Amaryllidaceae

Chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium), Asteraceae

Cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum), Lauraceae

Cinnamon myrtle (Backhousia myrtifolia), Myrtaceae

Clary sage (Salvia sclarea), Lamiaceae

Clove (Syzygium aromaticum), Myrtaceae

Coastal saltbush (Atriplex cinerea), Amaranthaceae

Coltsfoot (Tussilago farafara), Asteraceae

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale), Boraginaceae

Coriander (Coriandrum sativum), Apiaceae

Corsican mint (Mentha requienii), Lamiaceae

Costmary (Tanacetum balsamita), Asteraceae

Cowslip (Primula veris), Primulaceae

Cranberry 1 (Vaccinium macrocarpon), Ericaceae

Cranberry 2 (Vaccinium oxycoccos), Ericaceae

Cress (Lepidium sativum), Brassicaceae

Cuckoo flower (Cardamine pratensis), Brassicaceae

Cumin (Cuminum cyminum), Apiaceae

Curry leaf myrtle (Backhousia angustifolia), Myrtaceae

Curry leaf tree (Murraya koenigii), Rutaceae

Curry plant (Helichrysum italicum), Asteraceae

Daisy (Bellis perennis), Asteraceae

Damiana (Turnera diffusa), Turneraceae

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale), Asteraceae

Dill (Antemum graveolens), Apiaceae

Dittany of Crete (Origanum dictamnus), Lamiaceae

Dogbane (Plectranthus canis), Lamiaceae

Drumstick tree (Moringa oleifera), Moringaceae

Dyer's greenweed (Genista tinctoria), Fabaceae

Echinacea (Echinaceae purpurea), Asteraceae

Elder (Sambucus nigra), Adoxaceae

Elderflower (Sambucus canadensis), Adoxaceae

Elecampane (Inula helenium), Asteraceae

Epazote (Dysphania ambrosioides), Amaranthaceae

Areca palm (Areca catechu), Arecaceae

Eucalyptus (Eucalyptus globulus), Myrtaceae

Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis), Onagraceae

Eyebright (Euphrasia officinalis), Orobanchaceae

Fat hen (Chenopodium album), Amaranthaceae

Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare), Apiaceae

Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum), Fabaceae

Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium), Asteraceae

Finger lime (Citrus australasica), Rutaceae

Fish mint (Houttuynia cordata), Saururaceae

Fish poison tree (Barringtonia asiatica), Lecythidaceae

Flax (Linum usitatissimum), Linaceae

Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica), Boraginaceae

French marigold (Tagetes patula), Asteraceae

Garland chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum coronarium), Asteraceae

Garlic (Allium sativum var.sativum), Amaryllidaceae

Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum), Amaryllidaceae

Garlic mustard (Alliaria petiolata), Brassicaceae

Gas plant (Dictamnus albus), Rutaceae

Germander (Teucrium argutum), Lamiaceae

Ginger (Zingiber officinale), Zingiberaceae

Goat's rue (Galega officinalis), Fabaceae

Goji berry (Lycium chinese), Solanaceae

Goldenrod (Solidago canadensis), Asteraceae

Goldenseal (Hydrastis canadensis), Ranunculaceae

Good King Henry (Blitum bonus-henricus), Apiaceae

Gotu kola (Centella asiatica), Apiaceae

Gravelroot (Eupatorium purpureum), Asteraceae

Greater celandine (Chelidonium majus), Papaveraceae

Greater galangal (Alpinia galanga), Zingiberaceae

Grey myrtle (Heimia myrtifolia), Lythraceae

Ground ivy (Glechoma hederacea), Lamiaceae

Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), Rosaceae

Henna (Lawsonia inermis), Lythraceae

Herb gerard (Aegopodium podagrarium), Apiaceae

Herb Robert (Geranium robertianum), Geraniaceae

Holly (Ilex aquifolium), Aquifoliaceae

Honeysuckle (Lonicera periclymenum), Caprifoliaceae

Hops (Humulus lupulus), Cannabaceae

Horehound (Marrubium vulgare), Lamiaceae

Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana), Brassicaceae

Horsetails (Equisetum arvense), Equisetaceae

Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum), Crassulaceae

Hyssop (Hyssopus officinalis), Lamiaceae

Jasmine (Jasminum officinale), Oleaceae

Jerusalem oak goosefoot (Dysphania botrys), Amaranthaceae

Juniper (Juniperus communis), Cupressaceae

Kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix), Rutaceae

Kankong (Ipomoea aquatica), Convolvulaceae

Kencur (Kaempferia galanga), Zingiberaceae

King of bitters (Andrographis paniculata), Acanthaceae

Lady's bedstraw (Galium verum), Rubiaceae

Lady's mantle (Alchemilla vulgaris), Rosaceae

Lamb's lettuce (Valerianella locusta), Caprifoliaceae

Lavender (Lavendula angustifolia), Lamiaceae

Lebanese cress (Aethionema cordifolium), Brassicaceae

Leek (Allium ampeloprasum), Amaryllidaceae

Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), Lamiaceae

Lemon myrtle (Backhousia citriodora), Myrtaceae

Lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus), Lamiaceae

Lemon verbena (Aloysia citrodora), Verbenaceae

Lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus), Poaceae

Licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Fabaceae

Lion's tail (Leonotis leonurus), Lamiaceae

Lovage (Levisticum officinale), Apiaceae

Lungwort (Pulmonaria officinalis), Boraginaceae

Lupin (Lupinus polyphyllus), Fabaceae

Madagascar jasmine (Stephanotis floribunda), Apocynaceae

Madagascar periwinkle (Catharanthus rosea), Apocynaceae

Madder (Rubia tinctorum), Rubiaceae

Madonna lily (Lilium candidum), Liliaceae

Majoram (Origanum majorana), Lamiaceae

Mallow (Malva sylvestris), Malvaceae

Manuka tea tree (Leptospermum scoparium), Myrtaceae

Marigold (Calendula officinalis), Asteraceae

Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis), Malvaceae

Meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria), Rosaceae

Mexican tarragon (Tagetes lucida), Asteraceae

Mignonette (Reseda odorata), Resedaceae

Miner's lettuce (Claytonia perfoliata), Portulacaceae

Mints (Mentha spicata), Lamiaceae

Molucca bramble (Rubus moluccanus), Rosaceae

Mother of herbs (Plectranthus amboinicus), Lamiaceae

Motherwort (Leonurus cardiaca), Lamiaceae

Mountain tobacco (Arnica montana), Asteraceae

Mullein (Verbascum thapsus), Scrophulariaceae

Muntries (Kunzea pomifera), Myrtaceae

Mushroom plant (Rungia klossii), Acanthaceae

Musk mallow (Malva moschata), Malvaceae

Mustard (Brassica nigra), Brassicaceae

Myrtle (Myrtus communis), Myrtaceae

Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus), Tropaeolaceae

Native ginger (Alpinia caerulea), Zingiberaceae

Native tamarind (Diploglottis australis), Sapindaceae

Native violet (Viola banksii), Violaceae

Nettle (Urtica dioica), Urticaceae

Night-blooming jasmine Solanaceae

Night-scented pelargonium (Pelargonium triste), Geraniaceae

Nutgrass, (Cyperus rotundus), Cyperaceae

Nutmeg (Myristica fragrans), Myristicaceae

Nutmeg bush (Tetradenia riparia), Lamiaceae

Oak (Quercus robur), Fagaceae

Okinawa spinach (Gynura crepioides), Asteraceae

Olive tea tree (Leptospermum liversidgei), Myrtaceae

Onion (Allium cepa), Amaryllidaceae

Orache (Atriplex hortensis), Amaranthaceae

Oreganum (Origanum vulgare), Lamiaceae

Oregon grape (Berberis aquifolium), Berberidaceae

Orris root (Iris germanica var.florentina), Iridaceae

Pandan (Pandanus amaryllifolius), Pandanaceae

Parsley (Petroselinium crispum), Apiaceae

Passionflower (Passiflora incarnata).Passifloraceae

Patchouli (Pogostemon cablin), Lamiaceae

Pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium), Lamiaceae

Pepper (Piper nigrum), Piperaceae

Peppermint (Mentha X piperita), Lamiaceae

Perennial coriander (Eryngium foetidum), Apiaceae

Perilla (Perilla frutescens), Lamiaceae

Periwinkle (Vinca major), Apocynaceae

Pineapple sage (Salvia elegans), Lamiaceae

Plantain (Plantago lanceolata), Plantaginaceae

Poplar (Populus balsamifera), Salicaceae

Poppy (Papaver rhoeas), Papaveraceae

Primrose (Primula vulgaris), Primulaceae

Purslane (Portulacca oleracea), Portulacaceae

Pyrethrum (Chrysanthemum cinerariaefolium), Asteraceae

Quassia 1 (Quassia amara), Simaroubaceae

Quassia 2 (Picrasma excelsa), Simaroubaceae

Radium weed (Euphorbisa peplus), Euphorbiaceae

Raspberry (Rubus ideaus), Rosaceae

Red clover (Trifolium pratense), Fabaceae

Red tower ginger (Costus comosus), Costaceae

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum), Polygonaceae

Rice paddy herb (Limnophila aromatica), Plantaginaceae

Rocambole (Allium scorodoprasum), Amaryllidaceae

Rocket (Eruca vesicaria subsp, sativa), Brassicaceae

Rose (Rosa mutabilis), Rosaceae

Rose geranium (Pelargonium graveolens), Geraniaceae

Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa), Malvaceae

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), Lamiaceae

Round baby pigface (Disphyma crassifolium), Azoiaceae

Ruby saltbush (Enchylaena tomentosa), Amaranthaceae

Rue (Ruta graveolens), Rutaceae

Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), Asteraceae

Saffron (Crocus sativus), Iridaceae

Sage (Salvia officinalis), Lamiaceae

Sainfoin (Onobrychis vicifolia), Fabaceae

Salad burnet (Sanguisorba minor), Rosaceae

Saltbush (Atriplex nummularia), Amaranthaceae

Santolina (Santolina virens), Asteraceae

Savory (Satureja repandra), Lamiaceae

Scallion, Spring onion (Allium cepa), Amaryllidaceae

Scotch thistle (Onopordum acanthium), Asteraceae

Sea grape (Coccoloba uvifera), Polygonaceae

Sea purslane (Sesuvium portulacastrum), Aizoaceae

Seeds of heaven (Aframomum melegueta), Zingiberaceae

Self heal (Prunella vulgaris), Lamiaceae

Sesame (Sesamum indicum), Pedaliaceae

Shallot, Potato onion (Allium cepa var.aggregatum), Amaryllidaceae

Sichuan pepper (Zanthoxylum simulans), Rutaceae

Skirret (Sium sisarum), Aliaceae

Skullcap (Scutellaria baicalensis).Lamiaceae

Skunkvine (Paederia foetida), Rubiaceae

Sloe plum (Prunus spinosa), Rosaceae

Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis), Caryophilaceae

Society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea), Amaryllidaceae

Sorrel (Rumex acetosa), Polygonaceae

Southernwood (Artemisia abrotanum), Asteraceae

Spearmint (Mentha spicata), Lamiaceae

St John's wort (Hypericum perforatum), Hypericaceae

Star anise (Illicium verum), Illiciaceae

Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana), Asteraceae

Stone mint (Cunila origanoides), Lamiaceae,

Sudachi (Citrus sudachi), Rutaceae

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus), Asteraceae

Sweet cecily (Myrrhis odorata), Apiaceae

Sweet flag (Acorus calamus), Acoraceae

Sweet grass (Hierochloe odorata)

Sweet rocket (Hesperis matronalis), Brassicaceae

Sweet violet (Viola odorata), Violaceae

Sweet woodruff (Galium odoratum), Rubiaceae

Sweet wormwood (Artemisia annua), Asteraceae

Sweet yellow clover (Melitotus officinalis), Fabaceae

Tamarind (Tamarindus indica), Fabaceae

Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare), Asteraceae

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus), Asteraceae

Tea plant (Camellia sinensis), Theaceae

Thuja (Thuja occidentalis), Cupressaceae

Thyme (Thymus vulgaris), Lamiaceae

Turmeric (Curcuma longa), Zingiberaceae

Upland cress (Barbarea vulgaris), Brassicaceae

Valerian (Valeriana officinalis), Caprifoliaceae

Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia), Orchidaceae

Vanilla grass (Anthoxanthum odoratum), Poaceae

Vegetable pepper (Piper sarmentosum), Piperaceae

Vervain (Verbena officinalis), Verbenaceae

Vetiver grass (Chrysopogon zizanioides), Poaceae

Vietnamese mint (Persicaria odorata), Polygonaceae

Viper's bugloss (Echium vulgare), Boraginaceae

Walking onion (Allium × proliferum), Amaryllidaceae

Wallflower (Cheiranthus cheiri), Brassicaceae

Warrigal greens (Tetragonia tetragonioides), Aizoaceae

Wasabi (Wasabi japonica), Brassicaceae

Water celery (Oenanthe javanica), Apiaceae

Watercress (Nasturtium officinale), Brassicaceae

Wattleseed (Acacia aneura), Fabaceae

Weld (Reseda luteola), Resedaceae

White dead-nettle (Lamium album), Lamiaceae

White sage (Salvia apiana), Lamiaceae

Wild lettuce (Lactuca virosa), Asteraceae

Wild pansy (Viola tricolor), Violaceae

Wild rocket (Diplotaxis tenuifolia), Brassicaceae

Wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca), Rosaceae

Wild thyme (Thymus serpyllum), Lamiaceae

Wild yam (Dioscorea villosa), Dioscoreaceae

Wintergreen (Gaultheria fragrantissima), Ericaeae

Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), Hamamelidaceae

Wood avens (Geum urbanum), Rosaceae

Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium), Asteraceae

Yanang (Tiliacora triandra), Menispermaceae

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), Asteraceae

Yerba-mate (Ilex paraguariensis), Aquifoliaceae

Ylang-ylang vine (Artabotrys hexapetalus), Annonaceae

Yuzu (Citrus junos), Rutaceae

5.2.0 Names of herbs

Genus names start with a capital letter and are nouns,

They are followed by the species name, which starts with a lower case letter and are usually adjectives,

For example Zea mays - Maize, Indian corn, "corn" as in Kellogg's Corn Flakes,

The Indian name for this plant is "Mays"!

Many names use the former Latin or Greek language,

For example, Herb comes from the Latin word, (Latin herba 'grass')

(Those horrible Romans called our dear herbs "grass"!)

Another example is for Eucalyptus. The (Greek eu 'good', and kalypto 'conceal'), so called, because the calyx of the Eucalyptus covers the flower,

Latin nouns may end with the masculine -us, -is, -es, or the feminine -a, or the neutral -um, -e,

So every genus name is a masculine, feminine or neuter noun,

Many trees and shrubs were thought to be feminine, for no apparent reason,

Blackberry (Rubus ursinus) has a masculine name and banana (Musa acuminata) has a feminine name!

The genus names can be any of the following:

1. A person's name, usually a famous botanist, often with a Latin termination,

For example (Banksia serrata) is named after Sir Joseph Banks (1743-1820 ), who first collected it in 1770, at Botany Bay,

Is he the original Big Bad Banksia Man of the Gumnut stories?

(Stevia rebaudiana) was named after Dr Rebaudi, from Paraguay, the chemist who extracted the sweetness of Stevia,

2.Native name

The native name may be in its original form or with a Latin termination,

Vanilla: is the Spanish name for the fruit,

The cacao tree, (cocoa tree), (Theobroma cacao), and the wild carrot, (Daucus carota), are the original names of these plants,

These names are nouns turned into adjectives,

3.Ancient classical name

For example, Monkshood, Wolf's-bane, [Greek Akoniton, (Aconitum napellus)], and Narcissus [Greek Narkissos, (Narcissus poeticus],

4.Combination of former names

(Sequoia sempervirens) is the tallest and longest living tree, but the genus name Sequoia was made up, possibly from the name of a Cherokee Indian,

5.Descriptive name to show that it is like another plant or has an usual habitat or a part with certain shape,

For example: Australian round lime, (Citrus australis) - it comes from Australia, and garlic, (Allium sativum) - (Latin sativum 'cultivated'),

6.Hybrid names

The rules about hybrid names are very complex,

A simple hybrid can be shown by listing the two parent plants linked by the multiplication sign "×",

For example when (Mentha aquatica) (water mint) is crossed with (Mentha spicata) (spearmint), it gives birth to (Mentha × piperita), (peppermint),

The genus name can be shortened to one letter to save space,

So instead of parsley (Petroselinium crispum), after using the name in full the first time, we can simply call it (P.crispum),

Here are some herb common names:

Basil / Sweet basil, (Ocimum basilicum): (Greek ozo 'smell'), because basil has a nice smell,

Coriander, (Coriandrum sativum): (Greek koris 'bug')

The reason for this name is that people, who don't like the soapy smell and the sodium fluoride taste of coriander, have the genes which allow them to detect the chemicals, in the bug family of insects!

Water mint, (Mentha aquatica): Mentha was its Roman name,

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale), (Greek symphyo 'to unite', because Comfrey was a healing medicine),

(Latin officinale or officinalis 'monastery storeroom', because it was a useful plant),

The L.after the name means that this plant was first described by Carl Linnaeus (1707-1778),

Fennel, (Foeniculum vulgare), (Latin foenum 'hay', because fennel smells like hay.)

Ginger, (Zingiber officinale): Zingiber is the Indian name for this plant,

Lavender, (Lavandula angustifolia), (Latin lavo 'wash', because the Romans washed in lavender water.)

Marigold, (Calendula officinalis), (Latin calendae 'the first day of the month', because it produces flowers the whole year round.)

Nasturtium, (Tropaeolum majus): (Greek tropaion 'trophy', because it has shield-shaped leaves,

Onion, (Allium cepa): (Celtic allium 'all hot', because it has a hot effect on the eyes,

Oregano, (Origanum vulgare), (Greek oros 'mountain' and gamos 'joy', because oregano came from the mountains.)

Rosemary, (Salvia rosmarinus), (Latin ros 'dew', marinus 'the sea', because it had a maritime natural habitat.)

Sage, (Salvia officinalis), (Latin salvo 'to save', because sage was used as a medicine),

Thyme, (Thymus vulgaris), (Greek thuo 'perfume', because thyme has a nice smell,

Arnica, Wolf's bane (Arnica montana) (Arnica chamissonis) Adaptogen, anti-stress herb, e.g.ginseng, rhodiola, but adaptogen is not a scientific term!

5.2.1 Herbs, Spices and Seasonings

List of herbs, spices and seasonings used in recipes by SPICEography.

Herbs, (SPICEography)

Bay Leaves, Basil, Chicory, Chives, Cilantro, Curry Leaves, Dill, Elderflower, Holy Basil, Kaffir Lime, Lavender, Lemon Basil, Lemon Thyme, Lemongrass, Lovage, Marjoram, Mint, Oregano, Parsley, Rosemary, Safflower, Sage,Summer Savory, Tarragon, Thai Basil, Thyme, Water Hyssop

List of spices

Allspice, Ancho Powder, Annatto Seeds, Cardamom, Carom Seeds, Cayenne Pepper, Celery Seeds, Chervil, Chia Seeds, Chipotle Powder, Cinnamon, Cloves, Coriander, Cumin, Curry Powder, Fenugreek, Flax Seeds, Garlic Powder, Ginger, Gochugaru, Grains of Paradise, Kosher Salt, Loomi, Mace, Mahlab, Mustard Powder, Nutmeg, Paprika, Pickling Salt, Pumpkin Pie, Saffron, Sea Salt, Smoked Paprika, Star Anise, Sumac, Turmeric

List of seasonings

Chinese Five-Spice Seasoning: 1. Sichuan pepper, (Zanthoxylum simulans), 2. Star anise, 3. Fennel, 4. Chinese cinnamon, (Cinnamomum cassia), 5. Clove

Herbes de Provence Seasoning: (hyme, basil, rosemary, tarragon, savory, marjoram, oregano, leaf)

Mojo Seasoning: (onion, oregano, cilantro, sweet paprika, black pepper, cumin)

Old Bay Seasoning: (bay leaf, celery salt, sweet paprika, mustard, ginger, black pepper, nutmeg, cinnamon, cayenne pepper, allspice, clove, cardamom)

Ras El Hanout Seasoning: (ginger, cardamom, mace, cinnamon, allspice, coriander, nutmeg, turmeric, black pepper, white pepper, cayenne pepper, anise, cloves)

Za'atar Seasoning: (oregano, marjoram, thyme, cumin, coriander, sesame)

Mudbrick Herb Cottage

Herbs, (Mudbrick Herb Cottage)

List of some of the herbs sold as living plants in a plastic container or dried.

Aloe barbadensis, Aloe Perryi, Arnica Chamissonis, Ashitaba, Ashwagandha, Asian Greens - Giant Red Mustard, Asian Greens - Mizuna, Asian Greens - Mizuna Purple, Asian Greens - Mustard Streaks, Asian Greens - Tatso Purple, Asparagus Mary Washington, Bailal Skullcap, Basil - African Blue Basil, Basil - Lime Basil, Basil - Perennial Basil, Basil - Thai Basil, Basil - Thai Holy Basil, Basil - Tulsi Kapoor, Basil - Tulsi Krishna, Basil - Tulsi Vana Basil, Betel leaf / Vegetable Pepper, Borage, Brahmi, Calendula, Californian Poppy, Catmint - Walker's Blue, Catnip, Celery Seed (dried), Ceylon spinach, Chamomile German, Chamomile Roman, Chilli Aji Limon, Chilli Aji Omnicolour, Chilli Ancho, Chilli Birds Eye, Chilli Black, Chilli Jalapeno, Chilli Peruvian Aji Amarillo, Chilli Rocoto, Chilli Thai, Chinese Celery, Chives, Chives - Garlic Chives, Cinnamon Powder, Cinnamon Sticks (dried), Cleavers, Comfrey, Coriander Perennial, Coriander, Curry Leaf Tree, Cumin, Dandelion, Dill, Elderflower, Epazote, Feverfew, Fish Mint (Vap Ca), Galangal, Gentian Root (dried), Goji Berry Chinese, Gotu Kola, Herb Robert, Horseradish, Juniper Female, Juniper - Self Pollinating, Kan Kong (Water Spinach), Kencur, Krachi, Lady's Mantle, Lavender - Australian grown (dried), Lavender - French Lavender, Lemon Balm, Lemongrass, Lion's Tail, Makrut Lime (Kaffir Lime), Mexican Tarragon, Mint - Corsican Mint, Mint - Japanese Menthol Mint, Mint - Native Mentha australis, Mint - Native River Mint, Mint - Old Fashioned Mint, Mint Peppermint, Mint - Vietnamese, Mother of Herbs (dried), Moringa (dried), Motherwort, Mugwort, Nasturtium - Empress of India, , Native Violet, Nettle, Okinawa Spinach, Oregano, Parsley - Curled Parsley, Parsley - Italian Parsley, Perennial Coriander, Perilla Purple, Perpetual Spinach, Popular, Radium Weed, Rakky Chinese Scallions, Red Clover, Rice Paddy Herb, Rocket, Rocket - Wild Rocket, Rose Red - Flower Bulbs / Petals (dried), Rosemary, Rosemary - Salem Rosemary, Rocket Sage - Greek Sage, Saltbush, Salvia apiana 'White Sage', Salvia dorisiana 'Fruity Sage', Salvia elegans 'Pineapple Sage', Salvia sclarea 'Clary Sage', Sambung nyawa, Santolina Green, Sawtooth Coriander, Scented Geranium Candy Dancer, Scented Geranium Rose, Self Heal, Shiso Perilla, Sorrel - Sheep Sorrel, Spinach - Perpetual, St John's Wort, Thyme - Cretan Thyme, Thyme - Lemon Thyme, Thyme - Pink Creeping Time, Thyme - White Creeping Time, Thyme - Wild Thyme, Turmeric, Organic Turmeric Powder (dried), Woodruff, Wormwood, Yarrow White, Yarrow Red, Yellow Dock (dried)

5.2.2 Flooded herb garden, by Sandra Nanka

* Contamination from raw sewage present in extensive flooding contains bacteria that can cause illness if contaminated produce is eaten,

Use gloves and protective clothing when gardening, and if sewage contamination is suspected, avoid growing edibles for at least a season,

Contact the local environmental protection authority if industrial contamination is suspected,

  • Disposal of dead plants and rotting leaves by using a garbage waste facility not the compost heap
  • Drainage trenches dug around garden beds removes excess,

When soil doesn't drain properly, plants can't get oxygen and nutrients from the soil, which makes them weaker and vulnerable to disease,

Remove the excess water or add sand and soil and compost to help absorb the moisture and get rid of any unpleasant 'wet dog smell',

Most plants, especially vegetables, cannot tolerate standing water, so drain off any excess water by digging ditches or furrows,

* Fertilising< with an organic fertiliser under the mulch may be helpful to replace nutrients leached from the soil and encourage re-growth,

If topsoil has been washed away, add manures and mulch to improve the remaining soil,

Flooding can make your soil acidic, so use some garden lime to help neutralise it,

Leave fertilising until the warm growing season returns,

* Fungus diseases should not be ignored, but may be controlled with fungicides,

Apply a phosphoric acid based fungicide for plants showing signs of stress, because affected by Phytophthora root rot,

Apply fungicide to the soil around the roots of trees and ensure good drainage,

* Mulching is needed to protect the soil and cover impacted silt to keep it moist so worms can return and incorporate it into the soil,

The mulch spread prior to the rain may be have been compacted very hard or been washed away,

Dig over your garden and add coarse compost to help bring air into the garden,

* Pruning all rotting plant material away from healthy plants limits the spread of fungal diseases,

Remove only limbs that are physically damaged or obviously dead,

Remove any dead, yellow and damaged leaves,

After a week or so if the herbs are looking like they will survive you can trim them up to encourage fresh new growth,

Watch for signs of die-back, but do not be too hasty to prune everything, because branches that have lost leaves are not necessarily dead,

As long they are still green and pliable, chances are the leaves will regrow,

* Replanting on mounds about 200 millimetres high allows drying to remove over time any contamination in your garden,

Food plants and fruit trees grow better when they're raised, and the gardens are better able to manage heavy rain and flooding,

Use wood chips for pathways, because they absorb water much better than rocks or pavers,

Plan your garden considering where your run-off areas are, so you don't accidentally direct water towards areas that you wish to remain dry,

With the continued overcast skies seedlings may became "leggy", so sunlight and a good position is important for seedlings,

Seaweed solutions application promotes root growth and ability to withstand stress conditions, e.g.waterlogging,

Water with a seaweed solution and leave the plants to adjust to the new conditions,

Allow time to pass before consuming herbs that have been covered in flood water, wait until you have fresh new growth,

* Survival may depend on plant species characteristics and local seasonal climate,

Plants which are dormant in your cold winters may still do well if not too long in waterlogged soil,

Plants flooded in areas which normally have dry winters are more susceptible to rotting during a dormancy period when they would normally be dry,

After the flood, seedlings may appear in unusual places, because seeds may sprout some distance away from the original herb garden,

Herbs not suited to waterlogged soils include sage, thyme, Italian parsley, lemon balm, plantain and oregano,

Herbs in pots had a greater chance of surviving floods, e.g.bay tree, lavender, curry plant and sage,

Some herbs thrive after floods, e.g.Asian coriander and Vietnamese mint,

Perennial herbs that are not yellow and wilted are worth trying to save,

For parsley, sorrel, salad burnet, as new leaves grow from the middle not exposed to the floodwaters, take off older outside leaves at the base of the plant,

For rosemary, thyme, oregano, basil, cut back by about one third,

For chives, shallots and lemongrass, cut back at the base of the plant,

  • Symptoms of plants under water stress: leaf yellowing or browning, leaf curling and pointing downward, leaf wilting, reduced new leaf size, branch dieback,
  • Washing the silt or mud from the leaves and stems during your flood damage clean up improves access to sunlight for photosynthesis,

Washing may include rubbing plants with soapy water and using a high pressure hose,

Mud and silt can be composted,

* Weeding when the soil is soggy, is a great time to get the deep-rooted weeds out,

5.2.3 Herb gardens by Annette McFarlane

1.0 Herbs are easy to grow and are a great option for beginner gardeners,

They are ideal for people with limited space as they adapt well to pots and can be grown in small garden beds,

There is a huge range to choose from,

Most herbs are plants that does not develop a true, woody trunk, and are herbaceous or soft,

Some herbs, e.g.rosemary and lavender, do develop hard stems, but not really a trunk, so these plants do not respond well when you prune them back into their tougher stems,

The bay tree can grow to become a very big tree,

Herbs are often aromatic and usually have a traditional culinary or medicinal use,

The aerials of herbaceous perennials will die, but the roots stay dormant below the ground and will shoot away again when the weather warms up,

2.0 Potting mix

Soil pH of potting mix:

Use 5 parts potting mix and 1 part coir peat plus organic fertilizers based on blood and bone,

Always check the soil pH with a simple soil test kit,

Add sulfur to lower pH,

Add lime to increase pH,

Make your own potting mix using 7 parts compost, 3 parts coir peat and 2 parts washed river sand + an organic fertilizer product, but follow the application

rate on the pack,

3.0 Pots

A planter troughs containing 5-6 litres of potting mix is the minimum size for most herbs,

However, the more vigorous growing herbs, e.g.lemon grass, lemon verbena, pineapple sage, forms of rosemary ("Tuscan Blue"), and true trees,

The.bay tree will require much larger pots containing at least 9 litres of potting mix,

4.0 Plant Selection

Group your herbs according to:

  • Life cycle: Annual, biennial /short lived, long lived / perennial,
  • Needs: wet, dry, full sun, semi-shade, acid soil, alkaline soil,

5.0 Examples of good combinations:

* Garden mint, spearmint, apple mint, Vietnamese mint, all other mint types,

These plants are perennial, aggressive growers,

They require neutral to slightly acid soil and lots of water,

* Coriander, dill, fennel,

These plants are relatively short lived, like cooler conditions, all hate root disturbance, sow seed direct, and require slightly acidic to slightly alkaline pH,

Sow seeds of these plants directly into the pot and cover lightly with coir peat, as with other herbs or vegetables,

Apply liquid fertilizer when the seeds germinate,

Later you can harvest entire plants (roots, stems and leaves), just the way you buy them from the shop,

* Italian parsley, triple-curled parsley, sweet basil, rocket, purple basil, lemon balm,

They are relatively short lived, tender plants, and require a slightly acidic to slightly alkaline pH,

* Thyme, oregano, marjoram, sage, rosemary, lavender (the "Mediterranean herbs"), onion chives, garlic chives, stevia, perennial coriander, golden

oregano are all perennial, like hot, full sun, neutral to slightly alkaline soil, and can cope with some dryness once established,

Include flowering plants with herb combinations to create a more attractive feature, e.g.nasturtiums, salvia, marigolds, calendula and viola,

The flowering plants are edible,

6.0 Maintenance of a herb garden

* Check the herbs every day so put them where you will notice them,

Water the herbs as required and at least every second day if there is no rain,

* Add mulch to the pots to reduce evaporation and keep the roots cool,

Add stones or pebbles to prevent potting mix splashing out when you add water to the pots,

* Apply liquid organic fertilizer every fortnight and dry fertilizer at the beginning of every season,

Fertilize the soil, rather than the foliage,

Rinse herbs after harvest to get rid of any fertilizer residue,

  • Allow herbs to become established before you begin to harvest them with kitchen scissors,
  • Herbs, including perennial herbs, do not live forever, especially if you grow them in pots,

Potting mix eventually breaks down and turns to dust,

Pots will become filled with roots,

* Days of rain and high humidity suit mint, but not the Mediterranean herbs,

Sprinkle of garden lime over the foliage of "grey foliage" or "hairy" herbs, e.g.rosemary, lavender and sage, to help overcome the effects of excess humidity during the summer,

5.2.4 Herb growing basic tips, from the Queensland Herb Society

Position: Most herbs are hardy and will grow well throughout the garden, or in a separate garden of their own,

Grow herbs amongst your vegetables, they make great companions and they can improve growth and flavour of vegetables and repel pests,

Choose a spot close to the house for easy access, if planting throughout the garden, what you to use the most, close to the house,

The first step is to decide which herbs you would like to grow and how much room you will need,

Make some notes on how they grow, how tall, how wide, do they like lots of sun or do they prefer shade,

Sun: Generally, herbs need full sun, but some will survive on as little as 2 hours of good sun (after 9am) a day,

The herbs flavour and scent is stronger when they have adequate sun,

Herbs with grey leaves like lavender and rosemary require more sun, whilst parsley, mints and lemon balm will take less,

Soil: Most herbs need good drainage and grow best in a light crumbly soil,

Clay soils will need compost and manure dug through, building up the garden to ensure good drainage,

Sandy soils also need compost and manure added to give nutrients and help retain moisture,

Most herbs like a slightly alkaline soil you can add dolomite to increase pH,

Fertilize: Fertilize with a complete fertilizer or organic liquid fertilizer,

Also, use mushroom compost, worm castings and homemade compost containing chook or cow poo,

Planting: When planting out your herbs, soak the roots / tube for a minute in a solution of seaweed, this will help to prevent transplant shock,

Trim off any yellow or damaged leaves,

Water: When herbs are first planted water them in well,

Water regularly for the first week or so,

Once plants have settled in, rather than giving frequent light sprinkling, water deeply less often to encourage plant roots to grow deeper,

5.2.5 Sprinkles

You need a salt shaker for herbal sprinkles and finely powdered dried herbs

Home powdering is not sufficient for most spices, because home blenders are not powerful enough, so use commercially prepared spices,

However, leafy green herbs, e.g.basil, peppermint, parsley and chives powder up well in a home blender,

Some seeds, e.g.coriander can be made fine enough to come through the holes in the shaker,

If shakers have open holes, the herbs are constantly exposed to oxygen, but they still last for six months

To prepare herbal sprinkles:

1. Purchase or home powder dried herbs or spices,

2. Mix herbs together well in a bowl then put them into shaker,

3. Sprinkle them on your food,

Garden meat rub recipe:

1/4 cup sea salt

3 tablespoons powdered rosemary

3 tablespoons powdered orange peel

2 tablespoons powdered thyme

1 tablespoon powdered sage

1 tablespoon powdered black pepper

1 teaspoon powdered horseradish,

5.2.6 Vinegar, by Sandra Nanka

The moisture in the air from our continual very wet weather has left a film of mould on nearly every surface,

To remedy this I have made some herbal vinegar sprays to clean up with,

Vinegar is a cheap and safe way to clean surfaces around your home,

It is free of toxic chemicals that many of the store-bought cleaners contain,

Vinegar kills 99% of bacteria, 82% of moulds, and 80% of viruses, and when you add some herbs, spices or essential oils the effect is multiplied,

There are many combinations that you can choose, let your imagination run wild,

Here are a couple of recipe suggestions to get you started:

1. Rosemary, Lemon and Clove Mould Buster

  • 1 litre of white vinegar
  • ¼ cup of clove buds
  • 1/2 cup of fresh rosemary or dried rosemary
  • peel of 1 lemon

Add all ingredients to a 1.5 litre jar, or divide the ingredients between 2 jars,

Set aside for at least 24 hours, or leave the herbs and spices in the vinegar for months before using,

Use undiluted for mouldy surfaces or dilute 50/50 with water in a spray bottle for general cleaning,

I have used this mixture safely on my timber surfaces, but you may want to do a patch test on a small hidden part of the furniture first,

Rosemary is antibacterial, antifungal and antiviral, its fragrance is also very invigorating,

Cloves is known for its antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal and antiseptic properties,

Lemons not only smell fresh and clean they have antibacterial and antiseptic properties as well as mild bleaching power,

2. Lavender, Cinnamon and Orange Peel Cleaner

  • 1 litre of white vinegar
  • 2 cinnamon sticks
  • 1/2 cup of Lavender
  • peel of 1 orange

Add all ingredients to a 1.5 litre jar, or divide the ingredients between 2 jars,

Set aside for at least 24 hours, or leave the herbs and spices in the vinegar for months before using,

Use undiluted for really dirty surfaces or dilute 50/50 with water in a spray bottle for general cleaning,

This mix is great for greasy surfaces,

For hard to move stains try sprinkling some bicarbonate of soda on the surface before lightly spraying and scrubbing,

Lavender is antibacterial and anti-fungal with a calming fragrance,

Cinnamon adds a warm spicy scent and also has antibacterial properties,

Oranges have extraordinary cleaning power in the oils of their skin and form the base of many environmentally friendly cleaning products,

5.2.7 Herbs for schools, by Sandra Nanka

School gardens full of vegetables and herbs have become popular over the past ten or so years,

We have often been asked what herbs are suitable to plant in the school garden,

Some of the things that need to be considered are:

Taste: Herbs that have a pleasing flavour, not too bitter or sour,

Children's palates are more sensitive than adults,

Touch: The feel of the herbs is important, don't choose any herbs with prickles or sharp leaves,

Smell: Children love to smell plants,

Here is a short list of tasty fragrant herbs:

Basil offers a great smell as well as flavour a few leaves can be added to salads or sprinkled onto cooked pizza,

There are so many varieties to choose from,

Mint is another great smelling herb with many different varieties,

Spearmint or Egyptian mint, variegated apple mint or pineapple mint are lower in menthol than peppermint, making them less hot to taste,

Sprinkle leaves on fruit and in drinks or mix with some butter to melt over vegetables,

Parsley is a common herb that pairs well with anything,

Chives are a good choice, more subtle in flavour than onion, they can be sprinkled over egg dishes or mixed into salad,

Garlic chives are a hardy option and much quicker to grow than garlic,

Pineapple sage has pretty red flowers of pineapple sage can be added to salads, fruit salads and drinks,

The nectar in the flower gives a sweet taste,

The leaves can be added to salads or chopped into a salad dressing or by stuffing,

Mexican Tarragon is great for making a sweet herb tea,

It has the flavour of aniseed and no sugar is needed,

The tea can also be chilled for a cool drink,

Mushroom plant is a crunchy salad herb that children seem to like as the flavour is mild,

It is very nutritious and easy to grow,

Rosemary is a pungent herb, great for sniffing,

Add to roast vegetables or chop into vegetable muffins,

Oregano is another pungent herb, a "must-have" herb for pasta sauces and pizza,

At the start of term, let the children plant parsley seed or one of the basils - lemon, lime, anis cinnamon, whatever they can find in seed form,

Teaching children about herbs can be fun!

Here are some tips so you can be prepared when your plants arrive:

Position - Where will you grow your plants?

In a pot:

Choose a pot with enough drainage holes,

Purchase a good quality potting mix, we recommend Searles Organic Premium Potting Mix,

In the ground:

Choose a position with well-drained soil and adequate sunlight,

Adding compost to the soil is beneficial,

Fertiliser

We prefer to use organic extra on all of our plants, but if you do not like using pelleted fertilisers, you could use Aminogrow,

as a liquid fertiliser every 2 weeks,

Once your herbs are planted in the garden:

Water them every day for the first week to get them settled in,

Then twice a week for a couple of weeks,

Once they are established they can be watered deeply once a week,

Apply organic slow-release fertiliser as recommended on the package,

During times of intense heat or cold, watering with an eco seaweed solution can be helpful,

Products that contain only seaweed such as Eco Seaweed and Seasol are not replacements for fertiliser,

If your herbs are planted in pots:

Water your herbs every day for the first week,

After the first week, the best way to see if they need to be watered is to stick your finger into the potting mix to a depth of approx 5cm,

If the mix feels dry water well.If the mix feels moist don't water,

Herbs in pots dry out quicker than herbs planted in the ground,

So they will need regular watering,

Apply organic slow-release fertiliser as recommended on the package every 4 - 6 weeks,

During times of intense heat or cold, watering with a seaweed solution can be helpful,

Regular trimming of your herbs encourages fresh new growth and also gives you plenty of fresh, nutritious flavourings for your meals,

5.2.8 How to freeze fresh herbs

by Cindy Meredith, The Herb Cottage, Halletsville, Texas, USA

Cindy@theherbcottage.com

How to preserve herbs

There are several ways to preserve herbs for later use,

Drying may seem like the easiest, but it is not always the most effective to maintain the fine taste of culinary herbs,

Freezing herbs is a most effective, easy, and quick method,

If you would like to dry your herbs as a quick way to preserve them, you can hang them in an airy place away from direct sunlight,

Or lay them out on a screen or even use a cookie cooling rack with a towel over it,

The idea is to get airflow around the herbs,

To make sure the herbs are completely dried, crumble them between your fingers,

They should be completely dried and crumble easily,

Then, store them in an air-tight container away from direct sunlight,

If you are unsure whether or not your herbs are completely dried, just store them in the freezer to alleviate any worry,

For either of the following methods, use just the leaves and soft stems

Woody stems should be discarded and used elsewhere, for example, in tea,

Probably the best method is to freeze herbs in oil,

Use about 2 cups chopped herbs, singly or in combinations, to about 1/2 cup of cooking oil,

Using either a food processor or blender, gradually add the oil to the chopped herbs,

The mixture should be fairly thick,

Pack the herbal oil into small glass or plastic containers or ice cube trays and freeze,

To use, just scrape or chip the amount needed and add to your favourite recipe,

These oils should last up to about 2 years in the freezer,

To freeze herbs in water or stock, chop herbs, either one herb alone or make a combination of your favorites,

Fill the sections of an ice cube tray as full as you can,

Simply pour hot water or stock over them and freeze,

When frozen, remove from the trays and store in plastic bags for later use,

Use these “herb cubes” in soups, stews, sauces or anywhere you would use fresh herbs,

5.2.9 Mother herbs, by Sandra Nanka

The "Mother herbs" are the most important plants in the plant nursery,

The term "mother stock" is often used in plant nurseries, where it refers to a healthy, well-established plants used as the source for cuttings, division and seeds to produce new offspring,

There are several reasons why mother stock is important in a nursery:

  • Consistency: Using a consistent and high-quality source of propagation material helps ensure that the resulting plants will be of consistent quality,
  • Disease resistance: Mother stock plants that have proven to be disease resistant can help ensure that the new plants will be as well,

Herbs can be chosen for specific desirable traits, e.g.fast growth, drought resistance, or disease resistance,

* Efficiency: Using mother stock for cuttings can be more efficient than starting from seed,

The mother plant has already gone through the difficult stages of germination and early growth, and the cuttings, once rooted, are likely to be more robust and healthy than young seedlings,

* Cost-effective: Collecting seed and cuttings from mother plants saves money instead of buying them elsewhere,

The three methods of propagation in a plant nursery:

* Cuttings are used for most plants, because cuttings are exact copies or clones of the parent plant,

Perennial herbs usually propagated by cuttings, e.g.rosemary, thyme, perennial basil, mints, lavenders, oregano, lemon verbena, catnip, and catmint,

* Seeds can produce plants with variable traits, so they do not produce exact copies of the parent plant,

Annual and biennials are usually propagated from seeds, e.g.chervil, coriander, dill, and burdock,

* Division is an easy way to get several plants from one adult perennial plant,

Clumping plants, plants that produce suckers, and rhizomes, bulbs and tubers are usually propagated by division, e.g.lemon grass, society garlic, horseradish, turmeric and comfrey,

Division gives exact copies or clones of the parent plant,

Care of Mother stock

Every week, visit the mother stock to check that they are growing well,

Check for:

  • Insect damage: Some insects can be picked off by hand, but you may need to use a spray to control them, e.g."Econeem, Eco Organic Garden",
  • Fertiliser: Apply organic extra every 4 - 6 weeks, depending on how often the plants are getting cut back, e.g."Organic Xtra",
  • Water: As the mother stock gets older, they may look like they need more water, because of a blocked sprinkler,

The plant may be pot-bound, where the roots have tightly filled the pots, making it hard for the water to penetrate the soil,

These plants must be replaced or divided and potted into fresh soil,

  • Overgrowth: If the plants have not had cuttings taken from them, they may need cutting back to encourage bushier grown and fresh new stems,
  • Spacing: During the rapid summer growth period, they might need spacing to allow for the extra growth,
  • Night time visitors: Possums, wallabies, rats and mice can all eat quite a lot of herbs in one night,

Sometimes they just pick on one tasty variety, so the plants must be be moved to another area or enclosed in a wire cage,

Quassia chips as a spray works quite well for deterring possums as they do not like the taste of it,

5.2.10 Protect herbs from frost, by Sandra Nanka

Frost forms when the temperature falls below 0oC, and if water vapour is in the air,

These low temperatures can cause some plants cells to shrink, forcing water into spaces between the cells where it can freeze, form ice crystals and damage to the plant cells,

1. Get to know the Plants,

Make a list of what plants in the garden could be affected by frost,

Tropical and subtropical herbs will need protection, e.g.turmeric, curry leaf tree, gotu kola, vegetable pepper, and galangal,

Mediterranean herbs will take light frosts, e.g.rosemary, thyme, oregano and lavender,

2. Use a seaweed solution,

Before the cold season, weakly water the herbs with seaweed solution, e.g.Eco seaweed fertiliser, Seasol fertiliser, to increase he ability of plants to withstand extreme cold,

3. Mulch the herbs,

Spread a 10cm layer of cane, lucerne or pea straw mulch around the herbs to protect the roots from ground freezes,

4. Check the weather forecast to know what the overnight temperature is going to be,

5. Ensure the herb garden is moist,

Give the herb garden good soaking during the early afternoon so that the moist soil and higher humidity around the plants will moderate temperature extremes,

6. Bring herbs in pots them inside near a sunny window,

7. Cover herbs with a cloche, a bell-shaped glass or plastic covering or plastic bottles with the bottom cut off the bottle,

Push the cut end of plastic bottle into the soil around the plant, but take it off during the day or the plant may suffocate,

If it is still really cold during the day, undo the lid of the bottle to let some air in,

8. Use old blankets and tomato stakes,

Utilise old blankets, hessian bags, towels and sheets to create tents for the plants,

Use timber tomato stakes or bamboo stakes to make a tripod frame over frost-sensitive plants,

Drape the blankets over the frames making sure they cover the ground and remove them the next day when the sun is shining,

9. Use cold frames and tunnels,

Make cold frames from second-hand windows and wooden frames, or buy ready-made poly tunnels to put over the herbs in the garden,

10. Water the herbs before the sun rises,

Before the sun hits the herbs, spray the plants with a gentle sprinkle from the hose to thaw frozen plants and stop the cells from bursting when the sun hits them,

Do not use warm water, because it could do more damage,

5.3.0 Tinctures

5.3.1 Tincture defined

Tincture, (Latin tinctura dying, to dye), in relation to the colouring of the tincture after extraction,

A tincture is typically an ethanolic extract of plant or animal material or solution of such, or of a low volatility substance,

To qualify as an ethanolic tincture, the extract should have an ethanol percentage of at least 25-60% and up to 90%,

In herbal medicine, ethanolic tinctures are made with various ethanol concentrations,

5.3.2 Extracts

Extracts are the naturally occurring phytochemicals that has been extracted from the plant that produced them,

These phytochemicals are no longer trapped inside the cellulose of the cell wall of the plant, but are available in a solvent, e.g.water, alcohol, glycerin, and vinegar. The combination of ethanol and water provides the most stable and efficient solvent system for herbal extracts,

Certain constituents that do not dissolve in water will dissolve in ethanol and vice versa, so every ethanolic tincture contains ethanol and water,

Water is a good solvent for gums, mucilage, inorganic salts, sugars, colouring matter, alkaloids, salts, vegetable acids, glycosides, proteins, enzymes and tannins,

Ethanol effectively dissolves some glycosides, resins, alkaloids and anthraquinones,

tinctures can be made very simply by maceration of fresh or dried herbs in a large glass jar, but dried herbs is the most common,

The extraction process is basically the same for fresh and dried herbs, but when using fresh herbs the water content of the plant material must be known,

The best guide to recommended ethanol percentages is the British Pharmacopoeia (BHP) tincture formulae,

5.3.3 Prepare herb tinctures by maceration

1. Grind the herb to a moderately coarse grind, but not to a powder,

2. Weigh the herb and place it in a large glass jar with a screw lid that has been sterilized in advance,

3. Calculate the volume of solvent needed to make the strength of tincture required,

Establish the proportion of ethanol needed for the most efficient extraction and preservation of the selected herb, and mix the ethanol and water,

4. Add prepared solvent to the glass jar and cap it tightly,

5. Use an indelible marker to label the glass jar: date, name of herb, w/v ratio, solvent(s) used and their percentage,

6. Shake the jar 1-2 times daily for 14-30 days, and keep it in a warm place, out of direct light,

7. Decant, press or squeeze and filter the liquid, leaving the plant material after extraction, called the marc,

8. Store in dark glass with an airtight lid below 30oC and avoid exposure to light,

5.3.4 Fresh Plant Tinctures, (FTPs)

Make a fresh plant tincture by maceration,

Fresh plant tinctures (FPTs), are made from freshly harvested, undried herbs,

FTPs are made from freshly harvested, undried herbs, by maceration,

The water in fresh plants will add to the water component of the solvent, so it must be considered when calculating the total volume of the solvent, and

the amount of water and ethanol to use,

Some tips for making FPT'S:

Before macerating, mash, grate or pulp the fresh herb, using a sharp knife, grater, juicer, blender, food processor,

Non-woody fresh plants can be blended directly with their solvent,

Caution: Blenders and food processors are not recommended for tough roots or woody stems, because the blades are not strong enough and will get damaged,

The plastic bowl of a processor can react to strong concentrations of ethanol and crack, so either use a blender with a glass bowl or chop/grate the fresh herb using the processor, empty herb into glass jar, then add the ethanol solvent,

Fresh plant tinctures are best consumed within 6 months, but, if refrigerated, will last a year,

5.3.5 Fresh plant tinctures easily made at home:

| Garlic bulb (Allium sativum) | Ginger rhizome (Zingiber officinale) | Nasturtium leaves (Tropaeolum majus) | Nettle aerial parts (Urtica spp.) |

| Plantain leaves (Plantago anceolata and P.major) | Rosemary leaves (Rosmarinus officinalis) | Sage (Salvia species) | Thyme leaves (Thymus vulgaris) |

5.3.6 Recipe for a fresh plant tincture based on equivalent dry weight:

Ginger (Zingiber officinale) fresh plant tincture, 1:10 in 60%o ethanol,

1. Weigh, dry, then re-weigh a 10g sample of the ginger,

2. If the dried sample weighs 2g, moisture content = 80% (10 - 2 = 8/10 x 100 = 80%) and the dry weight is 20% of the fresh weight (2/10 x 100 = 20%),

3. So 100g fresh ginger has an equivalent dry weight of 20 g and contains 80 mL of water,

4. To make a 1:10 tincture of 100g fresh ginger, use 200 mL of solvent as there is 20 g of dried herb equivalent in 100 g fresh herb,

(20g : 200 mL = 1:10 w:v)

5. To calculate how much solvent to add, subtract moisture content of fresh plant from total volume of solvent required,

(200 mL- 80 mL= 120 mL)

6. The percentage ethanol required for this solvent is 60%,

(60% of 200 mL is 120 mL)

7. Add 120 mL of 95.8 % ethanol to make up the 200 mL of solvent,

(80 mL water in plant + l20 mL ethanol = 200 mL of 60% ethanol solvent),

5.3.7 Ratios when purchasing pre-made ethanol extracts

Most tinctures made by professional manufacturers are called fluid extracts and are usually at a ratio of 1:1 or l:2,

This is extremely difficult to achieve accurately at home,

In Australia, few companies specialise in liquid herbal manufacturing, which are available for practitioner dispensing only,

The ratios 1:1, 1:2, 1:5; 1:10 measure dried herb amount: mL,

For example, the ratio 1:l means 1000 mg of dried herb in 1 mL of solvent,

The ratios 1:5 and 1:10 are a lot more dilute and are used for herbs that are potentially toxic and/or very strong,

Reference: Adams, J & Tan, E.2006,

Manufacturing: "How to Make Medicines from Plants", Northern Melbourne Institute of TAFE, Preston, Victoria

5.4.0 Sprouts and microgreens

For sprouting, use seeds purchased from a reputable seed specialist,

Wash the seeds, then initiate germination by soaking the seeds in warm water overnight,

Rinse the soaked seeds thoroughly to remove any discolouration,

Place the seeds in a jar and use a rubber band to attach a piece of fly screen to the top of the jar,

Invert the jar 45o and place the inverted jar in a dish on a windowsill,

Rinse the seeds three times each day,

Microgreens are an exciting, colourful, gourmet alternative to sprouts,

They are half way in size between sprouts and salad mix, and are usually grown in seedling trays,

Microgreens differ from sprouts, they are grown in sunlight and harvested with scissors when there are 2 or more true leaves, but sprouts are eaten much smaller,

Use the following for sprout or microgreens:

Adzuki bean, Alfalfa, Amaranth, Basil (Greek), Basil (purple), Basil (sweet), Basil (Thai), Broccoli, Buckwheat (hulled), Cabbage (red), Carrot, Celery,

Chard (red), Chervil, Chickpea, Chive, Coriander, Dandelion, Dill, Kohlrabi, Lemon balm, Lentil, Mung bean, Lamb's lettuce, Mint, Mustard cress,

Onion, Pea tendrils, Quinoa, Red garnet, Rockmelon, Mizuna (green), Mizuna (red), Mustard (red), Parsley (continental), Parsley (curly), Radish (green),

Radish (red), Rockmelon, Rocket, Salad burnet, Shiso (green), Some growers prefer coco coir to grow on, using 10 x10 trays with and without holes,

Some seeds need to soak first, but most just put a layer of coco coir in the tray with holes and spray daily, unless too wet,

Leave in black out for 3-4 days then bring into light,

Use a shelve unit with LED lights set up and small fans for circulation,

5.5.0 The First hybrid

(Dianthus caryophyllus L) x (Dianthus barbatus L)

The many rumours about the idea of the sexuality of plants were answered by the German botanist, Rudolf Jacob Camerarius, famous for his publication on the reproductive organs in plants, in 1694,

He had studied reproduction of mulberry, castor and maize, and realised the role of pollen to carry characteristics from stamen to ovule,

But here were other rumours about different plants cohabiting,

Striped forms of the gillyflower, the clove pink, (Dianthus caryophylus), were once very popular in England,

We now know that they were hybrid forms of genus Dianthus,

However, in Shakespeare's play, "The Winter's Tale", Act IV, Scene III, written in 1611, Perdita declares her dislike of striped gilly flowers, by saying "Which some call nature's bastards, ...and I care not to get slips of them",

In 1717, London nurseryman Thomas Fairchild noticed plants with characteristics of Sweet William, (Dianthus barbatus), and Carnation, (Dianthus caryophyllus). He decide to do an experiment, which we now regard as a famous experiment,

He tried to produce a plant with both characters,

He used a little brush to carry some pollen from a Sweet William plant to the pistil of a Carnation plant,

He grew the seed from this fertilization, and his gardener friends called the grown plant "Fairchild's mule",

His friends all knew that the useful animal called the mule has a donkey father and a horse mother,

"Fairchild's mule" was the first hybrid deliberately created,

Some people did not like "Fairchild's mule", on religious grounds,

Genesis 1:11 King James version:

And God said, Let the earth bring forth grass, the herb yielding seed, and the fruit tree yielding fruit after its kind, whose seed is in itself, upon the earth: and it was so,

They asked whether Thomas Fairchild was trying to do the work of God by creating new "kinds",

They told him to stop "playing God",

But the English meaning of the Hebrew word "min", translated as "kind"is still disputed,

Thomas Fairchild left money in his will for a sermon to be preached annually at St Leonard's Church, Shordich, UK, on "the certain changes of the animal and vegetal parts of the creation."

The sermon is still given annually,

Bud sport, sport

A "bud sport" or "sport" describes a part of a plant showing different characters, compared to the rest of the plant or compared to the same part in other plants of the same species,

It is probably caused by a genetic mutation and may be cultivated as a new useful variety, e.g.the 'KJ Pinks' and 'PinksBlush' varieties of the Australian custard apple, Atemoya, which is itself a hybrid, (Annona squamosa x Annona cherimoia),

Other herbs

Jakhya (Cleome viscosa)

Jimbu (Allium hypsistum) Wild onion, Nepal

Keluak (Pangium edule)

Vietnamese balm (Elsholtzia ciliata)

Kokum (Garcinia indica)

Malabar tamarind (Garcinia gummi-gutta)

Kutjura (Solanum centrale)

Lesser calamint (Clinopodium nepeta)

Locust beans (Ceratonia)

Mastic (Pistacia lentiscus)

Moldavian dragonhead (Dracocephalum moldavica)

Mountain horopito (Pseudowintera colorata)

Mustard, black / mustard seed (Rhamphospermum nigrum)

Mustard, white / mustard seed (Sinapis alba)

Njangsa (Ricinodendron heudelotii)

Cuban oregano (Coleus amboinicus)

Mexican oregano (Lippia graveolens)

Pápalo (Porophyllum ruderale)

Paracress (Acmella oleracea)

Japanese parsley (Cryptotaenia japonica)

Stone parsley (Sison amomum)

Brazilian pepper (Schinus terebinthifolius)

Grains of Selim (Xylopia aethiopica)

Dorrigo pepper (Tasmannia stipitata)

Mountain pepper / Cornish pepper leaf (Tasmannia lanceolata)

Peruvian pepper (Schinus molle)

Szechuan pepper (Zanthoxylum spp. Tasmanian pepper (Tasmannia lanceolata)

Sassafras (Sassafras albidum)

Spikenard (Nardostachys grandiflora)

Sumac (Rhus spp.)

Tonka beans (Dipteryx odorata)

Torch ginger (Etlingera elatior)

Water-pepper (Polygonum hydropiper)


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