School Science Lessons
Biology
2025-09-19
Australian native foods, Bushfoods
Contents
5.1 List of herbs sold commercially
5.2 Pasture grass, tropical grasses
5.3 Planting pots
5.4 Planting bare rooted plants
5.5 Scientific names of Australian native foods
5.5 Scientific names of Australian native foods
Introduction
The term "Australian native foods" refers to Australian native plants known to be used by Australian aboriginal people for food.
Similarly, the term "bushfood", "bush foods", "bush tucker foods" refers to Australian native plants that Australians use or were known to use for food.
However, "bushfood" may refer to plants supplied by plant nurseries and labelled "bushfood", without evidence that they were Australian native foods.
Also, and they may be hybrids subject to plant breeders' rights (PBR).
The Queensland Herbarium does not use the term "bush foods" in any publications and there is no agreed list of "bush foods".
However, in the list below, the common name preferred by the Austrlian National Herbarium or the Queensland Government is usually used.
Botanists avoid using the term "bush foods", because it refers to all of the indigenous foods for Australian indigenous peoples, including the protein component.
Botanists may prefer to use the term "Australian native foods" to differentiate between the foods the Aboriginal people used and the foods we daily use,
because we use their foods in a different way, and we use less of those foods available to them.
The term "Australian native foods", excludes any food that need processing to remove toxin, because their methods have been lost
The term "bushfoods" includes foods that need processing, and can be toxic.
See: Australian native foods Common names of plants, A to Z.
See: Australian native plants
See: Australian native foods
Australian native foods commercial suppliers
Scientific names of Australian native foods
The species below may not have been studied to determine the level of possible toxicity and the method of preparation or cooking needed to ensure no harm.
Aniseed myrtle, (Syzygium anisatum), Myrtaceae
Apple dumplings, (Billardiera scandens), Pittosporaceae
Apricot satinash, (Syzygium fibrosum), Myrtaceae
Atherton oak, (Athertonia diversifolia), Proteaceae
Atherton raspberry, (Rubus probus), Rosaceae
Australian cashew nut, (Semecarpus australiensis), Anacardiaceae
Australian nutmeg, (Myristica insipida), Myristacaceae
Australian raspberry, (Rubus parvifolius), Rosaceae
Australian sandalwood, (Santalum spicatum), Santalaceae
Baobab tree, (Adansonia gregorii), Malvaceae
Beach bird's-eye, (Alectryon coriaceus), Sapindaceae
Bernie's tamarind, (Diploglottis berniana), Sapindaceae
Billy buttons, (Pycnosorus globosus), Asteraceae
Bitter quandong, (Santalum murrayanum), Santalaceae
Black apple, (Pouteria australis), Sapotaceae
Black bean, (Castanospermum australe), Fabaceae
Black plum, (Diospyros australis), Ebenaceae
Bloodroot, (Haemodorum spicatum), Haemodoraceae
Blue flax-lily, (Dianella brevipedunculata), Aspodelaceae
Blue gum, (Eucalyptus globulus var. globulus), Myrtaceae
Blue lilly pilly, (Syzygium oleosum), Myrtaceae
Blue quandong, (Elaeocarpus grandis), Elaeocarpaceae
Blue tongue, (Melastoma affine), Melastomataceae
Blue-leaved mallee, (Eucalyptus polybractea), Myrtaceae
Bolwarra, (Eupomatia laurina), Eupomatiaceae
Boobialla, (Myoporum insulare), Scrophulariaceae
Boonjee tamarind, (Diploglottis bracteata), Sapindaceae
Brahmi, (Bacopa monnieri), Plantaginaceae
Bramble wattle, (Acacia victoriae), Fabaceae
Broad-leaved lilli pilly, (Syzygium hemilamprum), Myrtaceae
Broad-leaved paperbark, (Melaleuca viridiflora), Myrtaceae
Broad-leaved peppermint, (Eucalyptus dives), Myrtaceae
Brush pepperberry, (Tasmannia insipida), Winteraceae
Bulbine lily, (Bulbine bulbosa), Asphodelaceae
Bunya nut, (Araucaria bidwillii), Araucariaceae
Burdekin plum, (Pleiogynium timorense), Anacardiaceae
Bush banana, (Marsdenia australis), Apocynaceae
Bush mint, (Mentha satureioides), Lamiaceae.
Bush nutmeg, (Horsfieldia australiana), Myristaceae
Bush onion, (Cyperus bulbosus), Cyperaceae
Bushy bluebell, (Wahlenbergia multicaulis), Campanulaceae
Cape gooseberry, (Physalis peruviana), Solanaceae
Cape York tamarind, (Diploglottis macrantha), Sapindaceae
Cape York turmeric, (Curcuma australasica), Zingiberaceae
Carallia, (Carallia brachiata), Rhizophoraceae
Cedar Bay cherry, (Eugenia reinwardtiana), Myrtaceae
Chinese water chestnut, (Eleocharis dulcis), Cyperaceae
Chocolate lily, (Arthropodium strictum), Liliaceae
Cinnamon myrtle, (Backhousia myrtifolia), Myrtaceae
Coastal saltbush, (Atriplex cinerea), Amaranthaceae
Coastal wattle, (Acacia sophorae), Fabaceae
Curara, (Acacia tetragonophylla), Fabaceae
Currantbush, (Carissa ovata), Apocynaceae
Conkerberry, (Carissa lanceolata), Apocynaceae
Currantwood, (Antidesma bunius), Phyllanthaceae
Curry leaf myrtle, (Backhousia angustifolia), Myrtaceae
Corduroy tamarind tree, (Mischarytera lautereriana), Sapindaceae
Cherry satinash, (Syzygium luehmanii), Myrtaceae
Coolamon lilly pilly, (Syzygium mooreii), Myrtaceae
Cut-leaf mintbush, (Prostanthera incisa, Lamiaceae
Davidson’s plum, (Davidsonia pruriens var. pruriens), Cunoniaceae
Davidson's plum, (Davidsonia pruriens var.jerseyana), Cunoniaceae
Desert raisin, (Solanum centrale), Solanaceae
Dodder laurel, (Cassytha filiformis), Lauraceae
Dried herbs
Dryander tamarind, (Diploglottis obovate), Sapindaceae
Dusky coral pea, (Kennedia rubicunda)
Emu apple, (Owenia acidula), Meliaceae
Emu foot grass, (Cullen tenax), Fabaceae
False sandalwood, (Eremophila mitchelli), Scrophulariaceae
Flinders Island celery, (Apium insulare), Apiaceae
Fraser Island "apple", (Acronychia imperforata), Rutaceae
Finger lime, (Citrus australasica), Rutaceae
Giant speargrass, (Heteropogon triticeus), Poaceae
Golden wattle, (Acacia pycnantha), Fabaceae
Green plum, (Buchanania obovata), Anarcardiaceae
Grey mangrove, (Avicennia marina), white mangrove, Verbenaceae
Gumbi gumbi, (Pittosporum angustifolium), Pittosporaceae.
Hard quandong, (Elaeocarpus obovatus), Elaeocarpaceae
Heath banksia, (Banksia ericifolia), Proteaceae
Jam wattle, (Acacia acuminata), Fabaceae
Jelly bush, (Leptospermum polygalifolium), Myrtaceae
Johnstone River almond, (Elaeocarpus bancroftii), Elaeocarpaceae
Johnstone River satinash, (Syzygium erythrocalyx), Myrtaceae
Kakadu plum, (Terminalia ferdinandiana), Combretaceae
Kankong, (Ipomoea aquatica), Convolvulaceae
Kangaroo apple, (Solanum aviculare), (S. laciniatum), Solanaceae
Kapok bush, (Cochlospermum fraseri), Bixaceae
Karkalla, (Carpobrotus virescens), Aizoaceae
Large pigweed, (Portulaca intraterranea), Portulacaceae
Lawyer vine, (Smilax australis), Smilacaceae
Leek lily, (Bulbine semibarbata), Asphodelaceae
Lemon tea tree, (Leptospermum liversidgei), Myrtaceae
Lemon myrtle, (Backhousia citriodora), Myrtaceae
Lemon-scented ironbark, (Eucalyptus staigeriana),Myrtaceae
Lilly pilly, (Syzygium smithii), Myrtaceae
Little gooseberry tree, (Buchanania arborescens), Anacardiaceae
Macadamia nut, (Macadamia integrifolia), Proteaceae.
Magenta lilly pilly, (Syzygium paniculatum), Myrtaceae
Mangrove, (Avicennia officinalis), Verbenaceae
Midgen berry, (Austromyrtus dulcis), Myrtaceae
Mikania vine, (Mikania micrantha), Asteraceae
Milkmaids, (Burchardia umbellata), Colchicaceae
Millaa millaa vine, (Elaeagnus triflora), Elaeagnaceae
Molucca bramble,, (Rubus moluccanus), Rosaceae
Mountain pepper, (Tasmannia lanceolata), Winteraceae
Mulga wattle, (Acacia aneura), Fabaceae
Muntries, (Kunzea pomifera), Myrtaceae
Murnong, (Microseris lanceolata), Asteraceae
"Musk mallow", (Abelmoschus moschatus subsp. 'moschatus'), Malvaceae
Native apricot, (Pittosporum angustifolium), Pittosporaceae
Native Oregano, Native Bush Mint, (Prostanthera rotundifolia)
Native bush mint, (Prostanthera rotundiflora), Lamiaceae
Native cranberry, (Astroloma humifusum), Epacridaceae
Native currant, (Acrotriche depressa), Ericaceae
Native finger lime, (Citrus australasica), Rutaceae.
Native gardenia, (Atractocarpus fitzalanii), Rubiaceae.
Native ginger, (Alpinia caerulea), Zingiberaceae.
Native gooseberry, (Physalis minima), Solanaceae
Native grape, (Ampelocissus acetosa), Vitaceae
Native hibiscus, (Hibiscus heterophyllus), Malvaceae
Native lily, (Alocasia brisbanensis), Araceae
Native lychee, (Dimocarpus australianus), Sapindaceae
Native millet, (Panicum decompositum), Poaceae
Native mint, (Mentha diemenica), Lamiaceae
Native mulberry, (Pipturus argenteus), Urticaceae.
Native pepper vine, (Piper hederaceum), Piperaceae
Native pigface, (Carpobrotus rossii), Aizoaceae
Native potato, (Ipomoea costata), Convolvulaceae
Native raspberry, (Rubus rosifolius), Rosaceae
Native rosella, (Abelmoschus moschatus), Malvaceae
Native sarsaparilla, (Hardenbergia violacea), Fabaceae
Native tamarind, (Diploglottis australis), Sapindaceae
Native thyme, (Ozothammus obcordatus)
Native tobacco, (Nicotiana sauveolens), Solanaceae
Native violet, (Viola banksia), Violaceae.
Native violet, (Viola hederacea), Violaceae.
Native wampee, (Murraya crenulata)
New Zealand tea tree, (Leptospermum scoparium), Myrtaceae
Nitre bush, (Nitraria billardierei), Nitrariaceae
Nodding saltbush, (Einadia nutans), Chenopodiaceae
Noni, (Morinda citrifolia), Rubiaceae
Northern kurrajong, (Brachychiton diversifolius), Sterculiaceae
Orange berry, (Glycosmis trifoliata), Rutaceae
Oval leaf mint bush, (Prostanthera ovalifolia), Lamiaceae
Peanut tree, (Sterculia quadrifida), Malvaceae
Pencil yam, (Vigna lanceolata), Fabaceae
Pigface, (Carpobrotus glaucescens), Aizoaceae
Pink satinash, (Syzygium malaccense), Myrtaceae
Plum pine, (Podocarpus elatus), Podocarpaceae.
Potato bush, (Solanum ellipticum), Solanaceae
Prickly currant bush, (Coprosma quadrifida)
Purple apple-berry, (Billardiera longiflora), Pittosporaceae
Purslane, (Portulaca oleracea), Portulacaceae
Queensland blue flax-lily, (Dianella atraxis), Aspodelaceae
Red bopple nut, (Hicksbeachia pinnatifolia), Proteaceae
Red maids, (Calandrinia balonensis), Portulacaceae
Red-flowered kurrajong, (Brachychiton megaphyllus), Sterculiaceae
River mint, (Mentha australis), Lamiaceae
Rock lily, (Bulbine glauca), Asphodelaceae
Rose myrtle, (Archirhodomyrtus beckleri), Myrtaceae
Rough-shell Queensland nut, (Macadamia tetraphylla), Proteaceae
Ruby saltbush, (Enchylaena tomentosa), Amaranthaceae
Running postman, (Kennedia prostrata), Fabaceae
Saltbush, (Atriplex nummularia), Amaranthaceae
Samphire, (Salicornia quinqueflora)
Sandpaper fig, (Ficus coronata), Moraceae
Sandplain wattle, (Acacia murrayana), Fabaceae
Sawsedge, (Gahnia aspera), Cyperaceae
Scrambling lily, (Geitonoplesium cymosum), Asphodelaceae
Screwpine, (Pandanus odifer), Pandanaceae
Scrub nettle, (Urtica incisa), Urticaceae
Scurvy weed, (Commelina cyanea), Commelinaceae
Sea celery, (Apium prostatum), Apiaceae
Sea purslane, (Sesuvium sportulacastrum), Azoiaceae
Seaberry salt-bush, (Rhagodia candolleana), Amaranthaceae
Seablite, (Suaeda australis), Amaranthaceae
Silky myrtle, (Decaspermum humile), Myrtaceae
Silky wattle, (Acacia holosericea), Fabaceae
Small-leaved tamarind, (Diploglottis campbellii), Sapindaceae.
Smith's tamarind, (Diploglottis smithii), Sapindaceae
Smooth Davidson's plum, (Davidsonia johnsonii), Cunoniaceae
Sneezeweed, (Centipeda cunninghamii), Asteraceae
Spear-leaved dioscorea (Dioscorea hastifolia), Dioscoreaceae
Spiny-head mat-rush, (Lomandra longifolia)
Strawberry gum, (Eucalyptus olida), Myrtaceae
Swamp wattle, (Acacia retinodes), Fabaceae
Sweet apple-berry, (Billardiera cymosa), Pittosporaceae
Sweet sarsaparilla, (Smilax glyciphylla), Smilacaceae
Sweet white kunzea, (Kunzea ambigua)
Tanjong tree, (Mimusops elengi), Sapotaceae
Tasman flax-lily, (Dianella tasmanica), Aspodelaceae
Tasmanian snow berry, (Gaultheria hispida), Ericaceae.
Tea tree, (Leptospermum petersonii)
Tropical banksia, (Banksia dentata), Proteaceae
Vanilla lily, (Arthropodium milleflorum), Liliaceae
Walking stick palm, (Linospadix monostachya), Arecaceae
Warrigal greens, (Tetragonia tetragonioides), Aizoaceae.
Warrilyn, (Eucalyptus pachyphylla), Myrtaceae
Water lily, (Nymphaea macrosperma), Nymphaeaceae
Wattleseed, (Acacia aneura, A. pycnantha, A. retinodes, A. longifolia, A. victoriae), Fabaceae
Weeping paperbark, (Melaleuca leucadendra), Myrtaceae
White aspen (Acronychia oblongifolia), Rutaceae
White correa, (Correa alba), Rutaceae
White elderberry, (Sambucus gaudichaudiana), Adoxaceae
Wild currant, (Antidesma erostre), Phyllanthaceae
Wild orange, (Capparis mitchellii), Capparaceae
Wild parsnip, (Trachymene incisa), Araliaceae
Wild passionfruit, (Capparis spinosa subsp nummularia), Capparaceae
Winter apple, (Eremophila deblis), Scrophulariaceae
Wirewood, (Acacia coriacea), desert oakFabaceae
Witchetty bush, (Acacia kempeana), Fabaceae
Wombat berry, (Eustrephus latifolius), Asparagaceae
Yellow plum, (Ximenia americana), Olacaceae
Yellow tulipwood, (Drypetes deplanchei), Euphorbiaceae
Youlk, (Platysace deflexa), Apiaceae
Zamia fern, (Bowenia spectabilis), Stangeriaceae
Zig zag vine, (Melodorum leichhardtii), Annonaceae
Dried herbs
Dried Wattleseed Powder
Dried Strawberry Gum Leaf Powder
Dried Old Man Saltbush leaf
Dried Lemon Myrtle Leaf
Dried Cinnamon Myrtle Leaf
Dried Anise Myrtle Leaf
5.2 Pasture grass, tropical grasses
Bambatsi panic (Panicum coloratum)
Batiki Blue grass (Smut grass) (Ischaemum indicum), long narrow seed heads, tufts hairs from flowers, grows well in shade.
Bermuda Couch grass, (Cynodon dactylon), restricted growth in dry seasons, widely used for lawn establishment.
Birdwood grass, (Cenchrus setigerus), used in short season environment, used as erosion control species.
Buffel grass, Cultivar Biloela, (Cenchrus ciliaris), drought resistant, cultivars adapted to wide range of conditions
Centrosema, Common, Belato (Centrosema pubescens)
Columbus grass, Crooble, (Sorghum almum), good pioneer species, drought and salt tolerant. short lived.
Green panic, Petrie, (Panicum maximum), var. (Trichoglume), palatable, shade tolerant, combines well with
Guinea grass (Hamil grass), (Panicum maximum), well adapted to high rainfall tropical lowlands, robust, erect.
Kikuyu grass (Elephant grass), (Pennisetum clandestinum), palatable, good autumn growth, erosion control.
Koronivia grass, (Brachiaria humidicola), strong growing, forms thick mat on soil, grows well on coral soils.
Molasses grass, (Melinis minutiflora), Pioneer grass in high rainfall areas. Carries fire.
Para grass, (Brachiaria mutica), grows in waterlogged soil, high production on coastal lowlands, but not stand heavy feeding.
Paspalum grass (Paspalum)
Pangola grass (Digitaria eriantha) subsp. (decumbens)
Plicatulum, Rodd's Bay, (Paspalum plicatulum), good legume compatibility, for coastal areas, very palatable.
Rhodes grass, Cultivar Callide, (Chloris gayana), widely used in scrub lands, easy to establish, gives quick cover.
Sabi grass, Nixon. (Urochloa mosambicensis), combines well with Townsville Stylo
Setaria grass, Nandi, (Setaria anceps), for coastal areas, aggressive, early spring growth
Signal grass, Cultivar Basilisk (Brachiaria decumbens), good ground cover, prefer to Pangola and Guinea in high rainfall areas
Siratro, and Greenleaf desmodium
5.1 List of herbs commonly sold commercially
Agrimony, (Agrimonia eupatoria), Rosaceae
Alehoof, (Glechoma hederacea), Lamiaceae
American elderberry, (Sambucus canadensis), Adoxaceae
Angelica, (Angelica archangelica), (Apiaceae)
Anise, (Pimpinella anisum), Apiaceae
Anise basil, (Ocimum basilicum 'anise'), Lamiaceae
Anise hyssop, (Agastache foeniculum), Lamiaceae
Aniseed, (Pimpinella anisum), Apiaceae
Asafoetida, (Asafetida), (Ferula assafoetida), Apiaceae
Ashitaba, (Angelica keiskel Koldzumi), Apiaceae
Asian mint, (Mentha asiatica), Lamiaceae
Achiote, (Bixa orellana), Bixaceae
Aibika, (Abelmoschus manihot), Malvaceae
Aloe, (Aloe vera), Asphodelaceae
Arrowroot, (Maranta arundinacea), Marantaceae
Artichoke, (Cynara cardunculus), Asteraceae
Balm, (Melissa officinalis), Lamiaceae
Barberry, common barberry, (Berberis vulgaris), Berberidaceae
Basil, (Ocimum basilicum), Lamiaceae
Bay tree, (Laurus nobilis), Lauraceae
Bilberry, (Vaccinium myrtillus), Ericaceae
Borage, (Borago officinalis), Boraginaceae
Butterfly pea, (Clitoria ternatea), Fabaceae
Brahmi, (Bacopa monnieri), Plantaginaceae
Betel pepper, (Piper betel), Piperaceae
Brazilian spinach, (Alternanthera sessilis), Amaranthaceae
Calendula, (Calendula officinalis), Asteraceae
Caper bush, (Capparis spinosa), Capparaceae
Caraway, (Carum carvi), Apiaceae
Cardamom, (Elattaria cardamomum), Zingiberaceae
Cassava, (Manihot esculenta), Euphorbiaceae
Cat grass, (Dactylis glomerata), Poaceae
Cayenne Pepper, (Capsicum annuum var. annuum), Solanaceae
Chamomile, (Matricaria chamomilla), Asteraceae
Chard, (Beta vulgaris subsp vulgaris), Amanthaceae
Chaste tree, (Vitex agnus-castus), Verbenaceae
Chervil, (Anthriscus cerefolium), Apiaceae
Chicory, (Cichorium intybus), Asteraceae
Chilli pepper, Chillies, (Capsicum frutescens), Solanaceae
Chinese keys, (Boesenbergia pandurata), Zingiberaceae
Cinnamon, (Cinnamomum verum), Lauraceae
Comfrey, (Symphytum officinale), Boraginaceae
Coriander, (Coriandrum sativum), Apiaceae
Corsican mint, (Mentha requienii), Lamiaceae
Costmary, (Tanacetum balsamita), Asteraceae
Cranberry, large cranberry, (Vaccinium macrocarpon), Ericaceae
Cress, (Lepidium sativum), Brassicaceae
Curry leaf tree, (Murraya koenigii), Rutaceae
Curry plant, (Helichrysum augustifolium), Asteraceae
Damiana, (Turnera diffusa), Turneraceae
Dandelion, (Taraxacum officinale), Asteraceae
Dittany of Crete, (Origanum dictamnus), Lamiaceae
Drumstick tree, (Moringa oleifera), Moringaceae
Elder tree, (Sambucus nigra), Adoxaceae
Elecampane, (Inula helenium), Asteraceae
Epazote, (Dysphania ambrosioides), Amaranthaceae
Feverfew, (Tanacetum parthenium), Asteraceae
Galangal, (Alpinia galanga), Zingiberaceae
Garlic, (Allium sativum var. sativum), Amaryllidaceae
Garlic chives, (Allium tuberosum), Amaryllidaceae
Germander, (Teucrium canadense), Lamiaceae
Ginger, (Zingiber officinale), Zingiberaceae
Gotu kola, (Centella asiatica), Apiaceae
Grey myrtle, (Heimia myrtifolia), Lythraceae
Hawthorn, (Crataegus monogyna), Rosaceae
Henna, (Lawsonia inermis), Lythraceae
Horseradish, (Armoracia rusticana), Brassicaceae
Hyssop, (Hyssopus officinalis), Lamiaceae
Jasmine, (Jasmium officinale), Oleaceae
Juniper, (Juniperus communis), Cupressaceae
Kaffir lime, (Citrus hystrix), Rutaceae
Lady's mantle, (Alchemilla vulgaris), Rosaceae
Lavender, (Lavendula angustifolia), Lamiaceae
Lemon balm, (Melissa officinalis), Lamiaceae
Lemon grass, (Cymbopogon citratus), Poaceae
Lemon Myrtle (Backhousia citriodora)
Lemon verbena, (Aloysia triphylla), Verbenaceae
Licorice, (Glycyrrhiza glabra), Fabaceae
Lime balm, (Melissa officinalis), Lamiaceae
Linden tree, (Tilia vulgaris), Tiliaceae
Lovage, (Levisticum officinale), Apiaceae
Marshmallow, (Althaea officinalis), Malvaceae
Mints, (Mentha aquatica), Lamiaceae
Mother of herbs, (Plectranthus amboinicus), Lamiaceae
Mugwort, (Artemisia vulgaris), Asteraceae
Mullein black, (Verbascum nigrum), Scrophulariaceae
Mushroom plant, (Rungia klossii), (Acanthaceae)
Myrtle, (Myrtus communis), Myrtaceae
Nettle, (Urtica dioica), Urticaceae
Old Man Saltbush (Atriplex nummularia)
Olive tea, (Leptospermum liversidgei), Myrtaceae
Oregon grape, (Berberis aquifolium), Berberidaceae
Pandan, (Pandanus amaryllifolius), Pandanaceae
Parsley, (Petroselinium crispum), Apiaceae
Passionflower, (Passiflora caerulea). Passifloraceae
Patchouli, (Pogostemon patchouli), Lamiaceae
Pigface Round Baby (Disphyma crass. sp clavellatum)
Pepper, (Piper nigrum), Piperaceae
Perennial basil, (Ocimum basilicum 'African Blue'), Lamiaceae
Perennial coriander, (Eryngium foetidum), Apiaceae
Perilla, (Perilla frutescens), Lamiaceae
Purple coneflower, (Echinacea purpurea), Asteraceae
Raspberry Jam Wattle (Acacia acuminata)
Raspberry leaf, (Rubus ideaus), Rosaceae
Rau om, (Limnophila aromatica), Plantaginaceae
Rosemary, (Rosmarinus officinalis), Lamiaceae
Saffron, (Crocus sativus), Iridaceae
Sage, (Salvia officinalis), Lamiaceae
Saltbush, (Atriplex nummularia), Amaranthaceae
Sambung, (Gynura procumbens), Asteraceae
Savory, (Satureja repandra), Lamiaceae
Scented geranium, (Pelargonium triste), Geraniaceae
Sea Celery (Apium annuum)
Sea grape, (Coccoloba uvifera), Polygonaceae
Self-heal, (Prunella vulgaris), Lamiaceae
Shiso, (Perilla frutescens var. crispa), Lamiaceae
Sloe plum, (Prunus spinosa), Rosaceae
Society garlic, (Tulbaghia violacea), Amaryllidaceae
Star anise, (Illicium verum), Illiciaceae
Sweetleaf, (Stevia rebaudiana), Asteraceae
Sorrel, (Rumex acetosa), Polygonaceae
Tamarind, Tamarindus indica, Fabaceae
Tansy, (Tanacetum vulgare), Asteraceae
Tarragon, (Artemisia dracunculus), Asteraceae
Thyme, (Thymus vulgaris), Lamiaceae
Tree mugwort, (Artemisia verlotiorum), Asteraceae
Tulsi vana basil, (Ocimum gratissimum), Lamiaceae
Turmeric, (Curcuma longa), Zingiberaceae
Vanilla beans, (Vanilla planifolia), Orchidaceae
Vegetable pepper, (Piper sarmentosum), Piperaceae
Violet, (Viola odorata), Violaceae
Warrigal greens, (Tetragonia tetragonioides), Aizoaceae
Wasabi, (Wasabi japonica), Brassicaceae
Water celery, (Oenanthe javanica), Apiaceae
White sage, (Salvia apiana), Lamiaceae
Wild yam, (Dioscorea villosa), Dioscoreaceae
Wild lettuce, (Lactuca virosa), Asteraceae
Withania, (Withania somnifera), Solanaceae
Ylang-ylang vine, (Artabotrys hexapetalus), Annonaceae
5.7.0 Planting
5.7.1 Planting pots
5.3 Planting pots
5.4 Planting bare rooted trees
5.7.1 Planting
The problem of poor germination is usually caused by sowing seeds too deeply, or over-watering or under-watering.
If the seed is planted too deeply, the tiny developing plant exhausts the food supply in the endosperm before the shoot and leaves have broken through and it dies.
The general rule is to plant a seed at a depth that equals twice its width.
Water newly-sown seeds with a mixture of one fifth of a teaspoon of Epsom salts in a litre of water to aid the germination process.
The magnesium in the salts will help stimulate the enzymes that make the food in the endosperm more readily available to the young seedling.
Small seeds should be only lightly covered with soil, but larger seeds will be planted at a greater depth.
The surface of the soil dries out more quickly than it does a few millimetres deeper.
Small seeds that are surface-sown should be kept moist after planting.
Larger seeds should be given a good soaking at planting time and then watered again only after they break through the ground.
If you water the larger seeds too much, they will rot in the moist soil.
The seed of many vegetables and flowering annuals are F1 hybrids, where the plant breeders have combined two strains each with desirable characteristics.
However, F1 hybrids usually do not set seed or the seeds are not viable.
Experiment
Plant tomato seeds
To select tomato seed for planting, squeeze the pulp and the seeds on absorbent paper, e.g. a paper towel, and spread it evenly over the paper.
Remove as much pulp as possible and lay the remainder in the sun for two weeks to dry the germination inhibiting enzymes.
Lay the paper towel with seeds uppermost on seed raising mix and lightly cover with fine seed mix.
Water lightly until the seedlings emerge.
5.3 Planting pots
1. Planting into the ground
Cultivate soil before planting.
Dig hole twice the width of the container.
Remove plant from the container and place into the hole so the soil level is the same as the surrounding ground.
Fill hole firmly and water in well even if the soil is moist.
2. Watering potted plants
Rocks or gravel placed in the bottom raising the water table inside the pot because it hinders drainage and may cause root rot.
1. Test for whether potted plant needs water.
* Use the finger to check the moisture level in the potting soil.
Stick the finger into the potting soil.
If the tip of the finger does not feel moist, it is not time to water the potting soil.
* Leaves will be drooping, turn brown or yellow in colour, or even fall off if the plant is not receiving sufficient water.
However, these problems can occur with overwatering, stress on the plant, pests, and diseases infecting the plant.
* Check the weight of the pot before and after watering.
If it feels lighter than after the previous watering, it is time to water the plant.
* A moisture meter gives an accurate measurement of the moisture in the potting soil.
Push it deep into the soil and let it stay for a few seconds.
Take it out of the soil and let it stand for a few seconds before checking the readings.
3. Water for potted plants
The best water for potted plants is free from chemicals, minerals, and impurities.
Rainwater and snow will give the purest form of water, but you need to collect such water and from a clean place.
In cold countries, snow from the sidewalk might have been sprinkled with salt or pets might have urinated on the snow.
Distilled water and deionized water is free from chemicals and impurities but expensive.
Cooking water used to boil eggs and vegetables, is free from chemicals and rich in nutrients.
Most gardeners use is tap water, but it could contain chemicals like chlorine or fluoride that are harmful to the plants.
Keeping the tap water in a container for 24 hours before use to allow dissipation of most of the chemicals.
Tap water may be hard water that will harm some potted plants.
After a few months, flush out the minerals from the potting soil with rainwater or deionized water.
3 Time for watering potted plants
The best time to water potted plants is in the morning before the sun rises, to give the roots time to absorb the moisture.
After the sun rises, excess water on the plant will evaporate.
This prevents a humid and moist condition forming on the plant that can cause fungal diseases.
Evening watering should only onto the soil and not wet the leaves, which will favour parasitic fungus, e.g. powdery mildew.
4. Method of watering potted plants
* If watering from the top, keep watering until water flows out from the drainage holes at the bottom.
Leave 5 cm of space between the top of the soil and the top of the pot, to allow filling the pot up to the top with water.
If bubbles through the drainage holes appear after watering, there are air pockets, so continue the watering until air bubbles are seen no longer.
The disadvantage of watering a plant from the bottom is that the salts may accumulate on the top of the potting soil.
You will need to water the potted plant from the top once a month just to flush out these excess amounts of salts.
* If watering from the bottom, use a container wider than the pot so you can place it in the container.
Once you know that the potted plant needs watering, fill the saucer with water till until it is halfway full.
Place the potted plant inside the saucer for 10 minutes so the potting soil and roots can soak up the moisture from the drainage holes at the bottom.
Stick the finger 1-2 inches into the potting soil and check if the moisture has reached a sufficient portion of the soil.
If the tip of the finger still feels dry, keep the potted plant in the saucer with water for another 20 minutes.
When the soil has enough moisture for the plant, take the pot out of the saucer.
4. Avoid overwatering
* Check the drainage holes at the bottom.
* Avoid frequent watering.
Water the plant only when the plant needs it by the surface of the potting soil.
If the surface appears dry, you can put the finger 1-2 inches into the potting soil and check for moisture.
Give the potted plant a good watering only if there is a lack of moisture.
The lack of air will cause the roots to drown and creates an anaerobic environment suitable for fungus to grow and cause root rot.
The root ball taken from the plant will have brown, soggy, and slimy roots, and may have a noticeable smell.
Leaves that are wilting or turning yellow may be a sign of overwatering or underwatering.
In some plants overwatering cause blisters on the leaves.
5. How to save an overwatered potted plant
Take the potted plant away from sunlight to a cool place indoors so that the leaves at the top of the plant do not dry out.
Tap the sides of the pot to allow air to flow and dry the roots.
Remove the root ball by place the hand on the base of the plant just above the soil and shake the pot with the other hand until the root ball comes out.
Place the root ball on top of a pile of dry newspapers.
Use the fingers to break up the soil from the roots and remove the soil.
Cut off the diseased and damaged leaves, branches, stem, and roots.
Place the plant in a new pot with fresh and clean potting soil.
Do not water the plant as soon as it is placed it in the fresh potting soil and do not add fertilizer, but avoid watering the potting soil for a few days.
6. Use a bottle drip system for automatic watering
Make drainage holes in the top of the plastic bottle cap and fill the plastic bottle with water.
Invert the bottle and stick the top into the potting soil, but not near the base of the plant.
Attach short glass tubes to the holes in the plastic bottle cap so that the added water goes deep into the potting soil.
The water will slowly drip through the glass tubes and will be available to the potted plant for many days.
5.4 Planting bare rooted plants
Based on "Bare Rooted Plants", Gardening Australia program, Australian Broadcasting Corporation, Broadcast Sat 30 Jul 2005 at 12:00am.
Deciduous trees can be purchased as potted plants or bare rooted plants.
Bare-rooted plants are sold in winter when they are dormant, because this gives them the best chance of being replanted or transplanted successfully.
During winter, trees and shrubs that have been field grown are dug up when they're dormant, and sold, ready for planting.
You can buy nearly all deciduous plants bare rooted - everything from fruit trees to roses and ornamentals.
Bare rooted plants are grown from seed in a plant nursery, then budded or grafted and then shaped for planting in the garden.
It takes about two years to produce most of the trees.
In Australia, bare-rooted plants are available in winter - June, July and August.
After August it's too late because they start to shoot and then transplanting becomes a problem.
Plant the tree soon after receipt and don't leave it lying in the sun while you are are digging.
Prune the tree after planting, because when the trees are dug, the roots are pruned, and for a balanced tree the tops should be pruned to match the root size.
Cut branches to about 30 centimetres from the main trunk, and to a bud.
To encourage a nice branching habit, remove the leader.
When you're selecting a bare rooted plant, try to ensure there is no obvious physical damage and look for a good, even branch structure.
If it's grafted, or budded, watch for any growth emerging from the base, just remove it because that's the root stock reappearing.
Before planting, remove any diseased, or even damaged, roots.
Dig a hole with a wide diameter, but at a depth so you can plant the tree at the same level as when it was originally in the ground.
Look closely at the base of the stem and notice any slight change in colour - that is where it was in the ground.
The bud or graft should be is about 10 centimetres above the ground.
Spread the roots out in a natural position and mound a pile of soil at the base to help support the root system.
Then backfill with good soil and wiggle the tree as you go.
Add water to remove any air pockets.
Loosely stake the tree until it is established.
Do not fertilise until the tree starts growing in spring.
Bare root fruit trees, Daleys Fruit Trees
8.1 Planting
The problem of poor germination is usually caused by sowing seeds too deeply, or over-watering or under-watering.
If the seed is planted too deeply, the tiny developing plant exhausts the food supply in the endosperm before the shoot and leaves have broken through and it dies.
The general rule is to plant a seed at a depth that equals twice its width.
Water newly-sown seeds with a mixture of one fifth of a teaspoon of Epsom salts in a litre of water to aid the germination process.
The magnesium in the salts will help stimulate the enzymes that make the food in the endosperm more readily available to the young seedling.
Small seeds should be only lightly covered with soil, but larger seeds will be planted at a greater depth.
The surface of the soil dries out more quickly than it does a few millimetres deeper.
Small seeds that are surface-sown should be kept moist after planting.
Larger seeds should be given a good soaking at planting time and then watered again only after they break through the ground.
If you water the larger seeds too much, they will rot in the moist soil.
The seed of many vegetables and flowering annuals are F1 hybrids, where the plant breeders have combined two strains each with
desirable characteristics.
However, F1 hybrids usually do not set seed or the seeds are not viable.
Experiment
Plant tomato seeds
To select tomato seed for planting, squeeze the pulp and the seeds on absorbent paper, e.g. a paper towel, and spread it evenly over the paper.
Remove as much pulp as possible and lay the remainder in the sun for two weeks to dry the germination inhibiting enzymes.
Lay the paper towel with seeds uppermost on seed raising mix and lightly cover with fine seed mix.
Water lightly until the seedlings emerge.
8.2 Planting pots
1. Planting into the ground
Cultivate soil before planting.
Dig hole twice the width of the container.
Remove plant from the container and place into the hole so the soil level is the same as the surrounding ground.
Fill hole firmly and water in well even if the soil is moist.
2. Watering potted plants
Rocks or gravel placed in the bottom raising the water table inside the pot because it hinders drainage and may cause root rot.
1. Test for whether potted plant needs water.
* Use the finger to check the moisture level in the potting soil.
Stick the finger into the potting soil.
If the tip of the finger does not feel moist, it is not time to water the potting soil.
* Leaves will be drooping, turn brown or yellow in colour, or even fall off if the plant is not receiving sufficient water.
However, these problems can occur with overwatering, stress on the plant, pests, and diseases infecting the plant.
* Check the weight of the pot before and after watering.
If it feels lighter than after the previous watering, it is time to water the plant.
* A moisture meter gives an accurate measurement of the moisture in the potting soil.
Push it deep into the soil and let it stay for a few seconds.
Take it out of the soil and let it stand for a few seconds before checking the readings.
3. Water for potted plants
The best water for potted plants is free from chemicals, minerals, and impurities.
Rainwater and snow will give the purest form of water, but you need to collect such water and from a clean place.
In cold countries, snow from the sidewalk might have been sprinkled with salt or pets might have urinated on the snow.
Distilled water and deionized water is free from chemicals and impurities but expensive.
Cooking water used to boil eggs and vegetables, is free from chemicals and rich in nutrients.
Most gardeners use is tap water, but it could contain chemicals like chlorine or fluoride that are harmful to the plants.
Keeping the tap water in a container for 24 hours before use to allow dissipation of most of the chemicals.
Tap water may be hard water that will harm some potted plants.
After a few months, flush out the minerals from the potting soil with rainwater or deionized water.
3 Time for watering potted plants
The best time to water potted plants is in the morning before the sun rises, to give the roots time to absorb the moisture.
After the sun rises, excess water on the plant will evaporate.
This prevents a humid and moist condition forming on the plant that can cause fungal diseases.
Evening watering should only onto the soil and not wet the leaves, which will favour parasitic fungus, e.g. powdery mildew.
4. Method of watering potted plants
* If watering from the top, keep watering until water flows out from the drainage holes at the bottom.
Leave 5 cm of space between the top of the soil and the top of the pot, to allow filling the pot up to the top with water.
If bubbles through the drainage holes appear after watering, there are air pockets, so continue the watering until air bubbles are seen
no longer.
The disadvantage of watering a plant from the bottom is that the salts may accumulate on the top of the potting soil.
You will need to water the potted plant from the top once a month just to flush out these excess amounts of salts.
* If watering from the bottom, use a container wider than the pot so you can place it in the container.
Once you know that the potted plant needs watering, fill the saucer with water till until it is halfway full.
Place the potted plant inside the saucer for 10 minutes so the potting soil and roots can soak up the moisture from the drainage holes
at the bottom.
Stick the finger 1-2 inches into the potting soil and check if the moisture has reached a sufficient portion of the soil.
If the tip of the finger still feels dry, keep the potted plant in the saucer with water for another 20 minutes.
When the soil has enough moisture for the plant, take the pot out of the saucer.
4. Avoid overwatering
* Check the drainage holes at the bottom.
* Avoid frequent watering.
Water the plant only when the plant needs it by the surface of the potting soil.
If the surface appears dry, you can put the finger 1-2 inches into the potting soil and check for moisture.
Give the potted plant a good watering only if there is a lack of moisture.
The lack of air will cause the roots to drown and creates an anaerobic environment suitable for fungus to grow and cause root rot.
The root ball taken from the plant will have brown, soggy, and slimy roots, and may have a noticeable smell.
Leaves that are wilting or turning yellow may be a sign of overwatering or underwatering.
In some plants overwatering cause blisters on the leaves.
5. How to save an overwatered potted plant
Take the potted plant away from sunlight to a cool place indoors so that the leaves at the top of the plant do not dry out.
Tap the sides of the pot to allow air to flow and dry the roots.
Remove the root ball by place the hand on the base of the plant just above the soil and shake the pot with the other hand until the root
ball comes out.
Place the root ball on top of a pile of dry newspapers.
Use the fingers to break up the soil from the roots and remove the soil.
Cut off the diseased and damaged leaves, branches, stem, and roots.
Place the plant in a new pot with fresh and clean potting soil.
Do not water the plant as soon as it is placed it in the fresh potting soil and do not add fertilizer, but avoid watering the potting soil for
a few days.
6. Use a bottle drip system for automatic watering
Make drainage holes in the top of the plastic bottle cap and fill the plastic bottle with water.
Invert the bottle and stick the top into the potting soil, but not near the base of the plant.
Attach short glass tubes to the holes in the plastic bottle cap so that the added water goes deep into the potting soil.
The water will slowly drip through the glass tubes and will be available to the potted plant for many days.
8.3 Planting bare rooted plants
Based on "Bare Rooted Plants", Gardening Australia program, Australian Broadcasting Corporation, Broadcast Sat 30 Jul 2005 at 12:00am.
Deciduous trees can be purchased as potted plants or bare rooted plants.
Bare-rooted plants are sold in winter when they are dormant, because this gives them the best chance of being replanted or transplanted
successfully.
During winter, trees and shrubs that have been field grown are dug up when they're dormant, and sold, ready for planting.
You can buy nearly all deciduous plants bare rooted - everything from fruit trees to roses and ornamentals.
Bare rooted plants are grown from seed in a plant nursery, then budded or grafted and then shaped for planting in the garden.
It takes about two years to produce most of the trees.
In Australia, bare-rooted plants are available in winter - June, July and August.
After August it's too late because they start to shoot and then transplanting becomes a problem.
Plant the tree soon after receipt and don't leave it lying in the sun while you are are digging.
Prune the tree after planting, because when the trees are dug, the roots are pruned, and for a balanced tree the tops should be pruned
to match the root size.
Cut branches to about 30 centimetres from the main trunk, and to a bud.
To encourage a nice branching habit, remove the leader.
When you're selecting a bare rooted plant, try to ensure there is no obvious physical damage and look for a good, even branch structure.
If it's grafted, or budded, watch for any growth emerging from the base, just remove it because that's the root stock reappearing.
Before planting, remove any diseased, or even damaged, roots.
Dig a hole with a wide diameter, but at a depth so you can plant the tree at the same level as when it was originally in the ground.
Look closely at the base of the stem and notice any slight change in colour - that is where it was in the ground.
The bud or graft should be is about 10 centimetres above the ground.
Spread the roots out in a natural position and mound a pile of soil at the base to help support the root system.
Then backfill with good soil and wiggle the tree as you go.
Add water to remove any air pockets.
Loosely stake the tree until it is established.
Do not fertilise until the tree starts growing in spring.
Bare root fruit trees, Daleys Fruit Trees
8.4 Planting guide
Crop Planting depth (cm) How planted Distance between plants Distance between rows Time to harvest (weeks)
Amaranthus, sprinkle, direct planting, thin to 15 cm between plants, 15 cm between rows, 6 weeks to harvest
Banana, 45 cm deep, suckers, 200 cm between plants, 200 cm between rows, 40 weeks to harvest
Basella, 5 cm deep, direct planting, thin to 30 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 5 weeks to harvest
Bean, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Beetroot, 2 cm deep, direct planting, thin to 15 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Broccoli, nursery, 45 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 14 weeks to harvest
Cabbage, nursery, 45 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Capsicum, nursery, 45 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Carrot, 1 cm deep, direct planting, thin to 5 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Cassava, 10 cm deep, cuttings, 100 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 30 weeks to harvest
Cauliflower, nursery, 45 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 20 weeks to harvest
Celery, nursery, 15 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 20 weeks to harvest
Chinese cabbage, nursery, 30 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Chilli, 10 cm deep, nursery, 75 cm between plants, 150 cm between rows, 20 weeks to harvest
Choko, 5 cm deep, fruit, 30 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Comfrey, 20 cm deep, cuttings, 75 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 50 weeks to harvest
Cowpea, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Cucumber, 2 cm deep, thin to 30 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Eggplant, nursery, 60 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Ginger, 5 cm deep, rhizome, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 30 weeks to harvest
Haricot bean, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Hibiscus cabbage, 10 cm deep, cuttings 60 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Kohlrabi, nursery, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Lettuce, nursery, 30 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 8 weeks to harvest
Maize, 2 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 15 weeks to harvest
Marrow, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 100 cm between plants, 200 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Melon, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 100 cm between plants, 200 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Mung bean, 2 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 9 weeks to harvest
Okra, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 30 cm between plants, 75 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Onion, 5 cm deep, direct planting, thin to 10 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 15 weeks to harvest
Parsley, 1 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Parsnip, 1 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 20 weeks to harvest
Papaya, transplant 200 cm between plants, 200 cm between rows, 16 weeks to harvest
Peanut, 2 cm deep, direct planting, 30 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 15 weeks to harvest
Peas, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 5 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Pigeon pea, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 60 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 24 weeks to harvest
Pineapple, shoots / slips, 30 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 60 weeks to harvest
Pit pit, Saccharum, 20 cm deep, cuttings 100 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 8 weeks to harvest
Pumpkin, 2 cm deep, direct planting, 100 cm between plants, 200 cm between rows, 15 weeks to harvest
Purslane, sprinkle direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 6 weeks to harvest
Radish, transplant, 25 cm between plants, 25 cm between rows, 16 weeks to harvest
Rhubarb, 2 cm deep, seed / crowns 45 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 5 weeks to harvest
Silver beet, nursery, 15 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Snake bean, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 8 weeks to harvest
Snake gourd, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 30 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 8 weeks to harvest
Sorghum, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 15 weeks to harvest
Soya bean, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Spinach, nursery, 15 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 8 weeks to harvest
Spring onion, 10 cm deep, direct planting, thin to 5 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Sugar cane, cuttings, 100 cm between plants, 150 cm between rows, 50 weeks to harvest
Sunflower, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 45 cm between plants, 45 cm between rows, 16 weeks to harvest
Sweet potato 10 cm deep, cuttings 45 cm between plants, 75 cm between rows, 14 weeks to harvest
Tannia, 10 cm deep, corms, 100 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 120 weeks to harvest
Taro, 20 cm deep, tops, tubers, 60 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 80 weeks to harvest
Tomato, nursery, 60 cm between plants, 60 cm between rows, 14 weeks to harvest
Turmeric, 5 cm deep, rhizome, 15 cm between plants, 30 cm between rows, 35 weeks to harvest
Watercress, 2 cm deep, root cuttings, 15 cm between plants, 15 cm between rows, 10 weeks to harvest
Winged bean, 2 cm deep, direct planting, 15 cm between plants, 15 cm between rows, 12 weeks to harvest
Yam, 10 cm deep, tuber cuttings, 100 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 40 weeks to harvest
Zucchini, 5 cm deep, direct planting, 100 cm between plants, 100 cm between rows, 8 weeks to harvest.